Walking in the Old Town of Rouen: Discover the Ultimate Itinerary

Walking in the old town of Rouen is like stepping into a living history book.

On a bright summer day, I finally set off to explore the historic capital of Normandy, often called the ‘City of 100 Bell Towers’ by Victor Hugo.

After years of wanting to visit, I booked a day trip from Paris to uncover its charm.

Before arriving, I had mapped out a route to see all the must-visit landmarks.

Here’s my itinerary – I hope it inspires you to make Rouen your next destination!

Forget the suburbs and reach the old town!

Coming from the direction of Paris or Le Havre, the industrial suburbs of Rouen might not impress you.

Don’t worry, for beyond lies the historic city centre, a “must-see” in the region.

It would be a shame to miss a stroll through its fascinating heritage, which includes Gothic churches, mansions, and hundreds of restored half-timbered houses…

Since the aftermath of World War Two, the city centre has undergone a costly upmarket restoration of its historical gem, which is largely pedestrianised.

Walking in the Old Town of Rouen

To make your experience of walking in the old town of Rouen even easier, here’s a map of my carefully planned route, highlighting all the must-see landmarks along the way:

My walk through Rouen’s main landmarks and monuments was 5.5 km long.

I made it in one day, but honestly, it was quite a race.

I stopped too many times to get the photos you’ll see below, and unfortunately, I had to hurry inside the town’s beautiful churches!

I recommend staying overnight in Rouen if you intend to visit the Clock Tower and the Fine Arts Museum.

Where to stay in Rouen?

You can choose from a great range of accommodation in Rouen, from hotels to B&Bs and campsites!

My recommendation is to book your accommodation near the city centre.

Although it’s a more pricey option, you’ll save time on transportation and can access most of the landmarks I discovered while walking in the old town of Rouen.

Also, when possible, don’t wait until the last minute to book, as finding hotel rooms can be a problem, especially on the weekends.

To book your accommodation in Rouen, click on this affiliate link, which will redirect you to our partner booking.com… or use the interactive map below:

Booking.com

Alrighty, let’s start walking in the old town of Rouen…

Walking in the Old Town of Rouen: the Stages

Walking in the old town of Rouen takes you on a journey through centuries of history, from the stunning Notre Dame Cathedral to the iconic Gros Horloge and hidden gems like the picturesque half-timbered houses.

Each step reveals a new story in this beautifully preserved city.

Temple St. Éloi, Place Martin Luther King

The walk starts from the Protestant Temple St. Éloi on Place Martin Luther King (not far from the banks of the River Seine).

The 16th-century church of Saint Éloi became a Protestant place of worship for the Reformed church in 1803.

Reach the adjacent Place de la Pucelle.

Place de la Pucelle and Hôtel de Bourgtheroulde

The name of the square led many to erroneously believe this was the place where Joan of Arc had been burnt at the stake.

Actually, the maid was killed on the adjacent square of Place du Vieux-Marché.

The fine Gothic Bourgtheroulde House (pronounced ‘Bourtroud’) dates from the 16th century.

It served as a residence to Guillaume II le Roux, Lord Bourgetheroude and member of the Exchequer of Normandy.

Although dominantly Gothic, some Renaissance influences are visible from the courtyard. After having housed a bank for many years, it became a five-star hotel in the 2010s.

From there, walk on Rue de la Vicomté and turn right on Rue du Gros Horloge towards the Cathedral.

Rue du Gros Horloge

Sometimes called by locals “Rue du Gros,” this 420-metre-long street is famous for the astronomical clock (the “Gros Horloge”).

Charming half-timbered buildings built on waterproof stone bases border the picturesque cobbled street.

Some of them feature richly decorated oak corbelling.

Some experts date a few of the houses along the Rue du Gros Horloge to before Joan of Arc’s death at the stake in 1431.

The astronomical clock known as Le Gros Horloge is the pride of the Rouen people.

It dominates a Renaissance arch that has spanned the historic street since 1527.

The clock lies roughly equidistant between the Place du Vieux Marché and the cathedral.

The Gros Horloge itself dates back to the 16th century, and its movement dates from 1389. A Gothic belfry flanks the Gros Horloge.

It was built between the 14th and 15th centuries and houses the bells linked to the clock’s movement.

Camille Pissarro painted the Rue du Gros Horloge in 1885.

Rue du Gros-Horloge became the first pedestrian street in France in 1971.

Apart from its historic atmosphere, it owes its popularity to the numerous shops and department stores.

The view of the cathedral in the distance towering over the half-timbered façades is pretty amazing.

Walk through the end of the pedestrian street to the Place de la Cathédrale.

There, you can find Rouen’s Tourist Office Centre and the stunning western façade of Rouen’s cathedral.

Place de la Cathédrale and Rouen Cathedral

Rouen’s most distinctive landmark, seen from far away, is the lofty and imposing cathedral, whose spire stands 151 metres high.

From the Place de la Cathédrale, the church appears in all its glory, with its Tour de Beurre (butter tower) to the right and the Tour Saint Romain to the left.

Facing the cathedral, turn to the right.

After a few metres, enter the Bureau des finances (House of the Exchequer), where you will find the Tourist Board of Rouen.

House of the Exchequer

The Bureau des Finances (House of the Exchequer) houses the Tourist Board of Rouen and faces the cathedral’s façade.

Built from 1509 to 1540 for the Exchequer General of Normandy, it represents a fine example of Flamboyant Gothic architecture and features early Renaissance elements.

Walk across the Place de la Cathédrale towards the Tour Saint Romain, then turn right at Rue Georges Lanfry.

Continue straight ahead: the street changes its name to Rue Saint Romain.

Rue Saint-Romain

On your right is the “Cour des Libraires” leading to the North Transept of the Cathedral.

There are many half-timbered houses bordering the north side of the street.

On rue Saint-Romain are the ruins of a former chapel where Joan of Arc’s trial ended on May 29, 1429.

It is also where her rehabilitation was proclaimed in 1456.

Later, cross the Rue de la République, and you will arrive at the little intimate square of Place Barthélémy, towered by the impressive church Saint Maclou.

Place Barthélémy owes its name to the 19th-century architect who built the church spire.

To install the spire, architects destroyed several houses.

To the left of the facade, observe the lovely 16th-century fountain.

Saint Maclou Church

The Church of Saint-Maclou is arguably one of the most striking churches in Rouen.

A Flamboyant church dedicated to Saint-Malo, it is considered one of the best examples of Gothic architecture in Rouen, alongside the cathedral and the Church of Saint Ouen.

A fine, elaborate spire has topped the lantern tower since the 19th century.

When you exit the church, take the rue de Martainville on your right.

A few metres beyond the church’s chevet, enter the Aître Saint Maclou on your left.

Rue Martainville is one of my favourite streets in the old town of Rouen.

I love its typical half-timbered houses.

The Saint Maclou Ossuary

This is definitely one of the strangest sites in Rouen.

The unique ossuary Saint Maclou (in French: Aître de St Maclou) is a popular landmark to discover.

One must recall the Great Plague of 1348 to place the ossuary in context.

As in most European cities, many townsfolk died during the plague.

The cemetery around Saint Maclou became too small to house all the dead, and a new cemetery needed to be built.

Therefore, plague victims were buried on this site in large communal graves.

The decorations reflect their original purpose: skulls, crossbones, gravediggers’ tools and objects.

If you look closer at the columns, you will observe Death leading Life in a “danse macabre.”

From the Aître Saint Maclou, return to Place Barthélémy and turn right on Rue Damiette.

Rue Damiette

Rue Damiette links the squares of Place Barthélémy to Place du Lieutenant Aubert.

Restored half-timbered houses border the narrow street.

On Rue Damiette, the spire of Saint-Maclou seems to respond to the lantern tower of St. Ouen church.

Cross the Rue d’Amiens and walk straight ahead for a few meters.

On your left, the medieval and picturesque Rue Eau de Robec starts.

Rue Eau-de-Robec

Rue Eau-de-Robec is lined up with half-timbered houses, and in its centre is a streamlet crossed by a walkway.

Arriving at the Place du Général de Gaulle, you will see the mighty Saint Ouen Abbey overlooking the greenery of the well-maintained gardens of the Town Hall.

On your right, Rue des Faulx stands an interesting row of half-timbered houses with the spire of Rouen Cathedral in the distance.

Enter the public park of the Jardins de l’Hôtel de Ville.

Saint Ouen Abbey Church

Saint Ouen is an impressive sanctuary and one of the largest churches built in the Rayonnant Gothic style.

The abbey church comprises two spire towers on the western façade and a majestic 88-metre central tower.

The latter rises above the crossing of the transept and is nicknamed the “Crown of Normandy”.

Take the time to stroll in the Gardens of the Town Hall, which surround the Abbey and offer views of the whole building.

To the North stands the classical building of Rouen’s Town Hall.

The City Hall of Rouen

The classical building close to the Abbey is Rouen’s present-day City Hall.

It was the monks’ dormitory until the French Revolution.

The monks had just completed the building when they had to give it to the municipality.

Reach the narrow and picturesque street of Rue du Petit Porche, and at the end of the street, turn left to the Place de la Rougemare.

Place de la Rougemare lies outside the limits of the touristy part of Rouen but is worth mentioning for its peaceful character.

Continue on rue du Cordier and cross the Place du Dr A. Cerné to reach the rue du Donjon.

The Tower of Joan of Arc

Oddly overlooking a residential area, the medieval tower is all left of Rouen’s once-mighty castle.

The king of France ordered its dismantlement in the 16th century.

However, only the keep still stands to this day.

It bears the name of Joan of Arc Tower since the maid entered the castle before her imprisonment by the English.

Return to the crossroads and turn right to rue Bouvreuil to the Fine Arts Museum of Rouen.

Square Verdrel and the Fine Arts Museum of Rouen

The public garden of the Square Verdrel opened in the Second Empire (mid-19th century).

It faces the massive building of Rouen’s Fine Arts Museum.

Napoleon I founded the renowned museum.

However, the present building dates back to the end of the 19th century and underwent restoration work in 1994.

Cross the rue Lecanuet and walk through the rue de l’Écureuil, where you can stop for a good cup of coffee at Citizen Café.

Turn left on the rue Ganterie.

Around the Place des Carmes

The Rue de Ganterie is lined up with some attractive half-timbered houses.

Turn right on the rue des Carmes and reach the Place des Carmes.

From there, take the rue de la Chaîne bordered by a fine half-timbered hôtel particulier.

At the end of the street is the Place Saint Amand.

Café terraces occupy the little Place Saint-Amand in the Summer.

There are some beautiful half-timbered houses to admire.

Follow the narrow street of rue Saint-Amand.

Another picturesque place I discovered while walking in the old town of Rouen – Rue Saint-Amand really gives an idea of what Rouen looked like in the Middle Ages:

Reach the Place de la Cathédrale by walking through Rue Saint Nicolas and Rue de la Croix de Fer. 

From the Cathedral Square, take the Rue des Carmes on the right and turn left on the rue aux Juifs.

The Parliament of Normandy

Rouen may be famous for its Gothic churches, but these should not overshadow other civil buildings.

One of them is the Gothic building of the Parliament of Normandy, one of the rare civil constructions in the Gothic style in the late Middle Ages in France.

The Gothic building once housed the Parliament of Normandy.

The remarkable edifice features typical Gothic decoration: crocheted pinnacles, gargoyles, four-centred arches, statues, and a Flamboyant balustrade with interlaced rosettes at the base of the roof.

When reaching the end of the building on the rue aux Juifs, turn right on the rue Jeanne d’Arc before taking the rue Guillaume le Conquérant to the left.

Walk along the street until you reach the rue Écuyère.

Take the street on the right and walk to the next crossroads with rue des Bons Enfants.

Rue des Bons Enfants

Continuing the axis of Rue Ganterie, which was previously crossed, is Rue des Bons Enfants. Fine half-timbered houses border the street.

Observe them closely: one of them seems to be about to collapse!

Walk along the rue des Bons Enfants and turn left on the rue de l’Ancienne Prison to reach the last stage of our walk: the Place du Vieux-Marché.

Place du Vieux-Marché

Place du Vieux Marché is arguably the main square of Rouen’s old town.

With its half-timbered houses and restaurant, it is dominated by the modern church of Saint Joan of Arc.

The 1979 modern and wacky and spiky-looking memorial church is at odds with the surrounding fine brown-and-white half-timbered houses.

Some people see in the shape of the church an upturned boat or the pyre on which the Saint was burnt.

A trapezoidal slate roof surmounts the church topped the church.

The elongated feature forms a walkway across the square.

In addition, the scaly tiling of the roof matches the fish-shaped windows.

Inside the church

Inside, 13 Renaissance-era stained-glass windows form a 500-square-metre glass wall that bathes the interior in exceptional light.

These fine windows date back to the 16th century.

They originally decorated another church that was destroyed during the Second World War.

However, authorities anticipated war damages and put the windows in safe.

They stored them untouched until they found their new home 40 years later.

The stained-glass windows illustrate Christ’s childhood, Passion, Crucifixion, and Resurrection, as well as the life events of Saint Peter, Saint Anne, and Saint Anthony of Padua.

Where was Joan of Arc burnt at the stake?

A small commemorative plaque and a 20-metre-high cross mark the spot on which Joan of Arc was burnt alive on the 30th of May, 1431.

The marks of a former church destroyed in the past are visible on the adjacent walls.

This walk ends at the Place du Vieux-Marché. For another exciting walk in Rouen, why not ascend the Côte Sainte-Catherine for a panoramic view of the whole city?

Walking in the old town of Rouen: more info

Here are a few websites and blogs about Rouen that you might find useful:

• on the blog: Rouen Old Town
• on the blog: Rouen Cathedral
• Tourist Board of Rouen
• Tourist Board of Normandy
• Wikipedia’s article on Rouen

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