Viens: Discover a Little-Known Medieval Village in Provence

During our last stay in Provence, we stumbled upon a hidden gem that we had never heard of before: the charming village of Viens.

Tucked away in the heart of the Provençal countryside, Viens is a true labyrinth of narrow, winding streets that invite you to get pleasantly lost.

As I wandered through this enchanting village, I uncovered architectural treasures from the Middle Ages, as well as from the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries.

Exploring Viens was like stepping back in time.

Every corner revealed a new delight, whether it was the impressive Clock Tower, the stately Renaissance castle, or the beautifully adorned mansions with their mullioned windows.

The village’s historical richness and its picturesque setting on a hill overlooking valleys and hills made my visit unforgettable.

Join me as I take you on a journey through Viens, sharing the beauty and history of this captivating village that truly embodies the spirit of ancient Provence.

Watch this short video on the Luberon!

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Viens: A Bit of History

Let’s step back in time as we recall the storied past of Viens.

Viens in the Middle Ages

The first mention of the village dates back to 1006, under the name Vegnis.

This was the name of a castrum founded in 990.

In the 12th century, the Saint-André Abbey of Villeneuve-lès-Avignon owned a priory here, which served as the parish church until the early 13th century, along with two churches, Saint-Ferreol and Saint-Jean, from which it derived its income.

In the 12th century, the fief of Viens was under the county of Forcalquier.

Then, it passed to the Count of Provence in 1220.

A prosperous town in the 17th and 18th C.

Viens experienced a prosperous period in the 17th and 18th centuries.

Markets and fairs were held here, and there were many craftsmen, including coppersmiths, masons, blacksmiths, and weavers.

There were 1320 inhabitants in 1716, which is double today's population.

However, today, the population easily reaches 1500 residents if we count the holidaymakers in summer.

The Discovery Guide of Viens

Here's some tourist information to help you explore the Provencal village.

🎦 Check out my guided walk on YouTube to explore Viens with me:

Understanding the Village

Viens is located 16 km east of Apt and 28 km west of Manosque.

The village overlooks a landscape of hills and valleys in the Vaucluse département, not far from the Alpes de Haute-Provence département.

Viens still retains some businesses such as a grocery store, a bakery, a restaurant, and a honey farm, making it an ideal countryside getaway.

One can easily become disoriented while wandering the streets of the old village. As for me, I had to study the layout carefully on my first visit to Viens.

The Village Walk of Viens

Let's begin our exploration of Viens from the Allée des Platanes (Route d'Apt) at the west entrance of the historic village.

The Fortified Gate of Le Portail

In front of us stands the Portail, the fortified gate topped with the Clock Tower.

This is the main entrance to Viens, which was accessible to carriages.

The base of the gate is Romanesque, while the upper part dates back to the 16th century.

The bell dates from the 14th century and the one-handed clock mechanism from 1862.

To the left of the gateway, have a look at the old village washhouse.

Pass under the arch and turn left onto the Rue de la Porte Neuve.

The Old Village Townhouses

Immediately, you are transported into another world: a maze of narrow and winding streets where it is easy to get lost.

At the end of the Rue de la Porte Neuve, take a left onto the Rue du Château.

Take a look at the beautiful inner courtyard of the Hôtel Monier d’Arnaud, dating from the Renaissance.

The Castle

At the end of the street is the castle courtyard.

The castle was built in the 16th century and renovated in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Behind the castle stands the Tower of the Pousterle, whose construction dates back to the late 15th century.

Rue du Four and Viewpoint

Retrace your steps and take a left onto the Rue du Four.

At the end of the street, we will admire a stunning panorama.

It then becomes clear that Viens is a perched village above the valley.

You will discover a panorama from the Montagne de Lure to the Grand Luberon.

Hôtel Monier de la Quarrée and Grande Rue

The tall house in front of you is of medieval origin.

This is the former Hôtel Monier de la Quarrée.

The façade is pierced with Renaissance mullioned windows.

You are now on the Grande Rue, which, I admit, does not at all have the image one might have of a village’s high street.

You will then arrive at the intersection where we were earlier, coming back from the castle.

Take a left onto the Rue du Chat Noir.

Rue du Chat Noir

This transverse cobblestone street will lead us to the Rue de la Place.

It was joked that the Black Cat Street was just wide enough for a cat to pass through.

Curiously, the owners of the famous Café du Chat Noir in Paris once made their home here.

Turn left towards the Place Centrale.

Place Centrale

We arrive at the area that is perhaps the most picturesque in Viens, with its old houses and vaulted passageways.

Here is the Place Centrale, the prettiest square in Viens.

The little square was the old market square.

It was the centre of social and administrative life.

The square is bordered by two mansions: the Hôtel des Comtes de Sault (or Maison d’Agoult) and the Hôtel des Commandeurs.

Rue Notre-Dame

Take the Rue Notre-Dame.

The green space to the right is the Place Roger-Bernard.

This was the site of the medieval Jewish quarter.

The Jewish community in Viens was small and was dispersed in 1498 during the general expulsion of Jews from the region.

Turn around to admire the back of the Hôtel des Commandeurs and its modern Gothic trilobed windows.

Notre-Dame Gate

Pass through the fortified Notre Dame Gate.

It is also called the Saracen Gate in memory of the deliverance by Guillaume de Forcalquier, lord of Viens in 973, of Saint Mayeul, abbot of Cluny, who was kidnapped by the Moors in the Alps.

St Hilaire Church

From the terrace is the lovely view of the church of Viens and its Lombard Romanesque bell tower from the 13th century.

The church of Saint Hilaire was built in the 12th century outside the ramparts and slightly lower down.

Place du Ravelin and Rue du Faubourg

You will then arrive at the Place du Ravelin.

Walking along the Rue du Faubourg, which follows the path of the old medieval rampart.

Back to the medieval village

Go back into the medieval village by taking the next transverse cobblestone street of the right which leads to the Rue de la Place.

From there, take a left and retrace our steps to the clock tower.

Like in a maze, you have found the exit!

Find out more

Here are some pages from our blog and other websites to find out more about this Provencal destination.

• Discover the hilltop villages of the Luberon
• Explore the neighbouring villages of Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt and Oppedette
• Find out more about Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur
• The official tourist office of the area

Where to stay near Viens

Viens and surroundings have a high capacity for holiday accommodation. The commune and its surroundings has hotels, bed and breakfasts (covering all price ranges), estate agencies offering seasonal rentals and gîtes.

Click here to book your accommodation in the Luberon or browse the map below:

What to do in the Luberon

Be inspired by a list of things to do in the Luberon:

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