The Strasbourg Christmas Market is the oldest in France and the country’s most famous festive event. Its 300 chalets are spread over several locations across the Grande Île, the historic centre of Strasbourg. You’ll find them on place Broglie, in front of the lofty cathedral or the picturesque Petite-France district. At nightfall, the French capital of Christmas sparkles with a thousand lights in a fairy-tale setting. I’m pleased to present you with this discovery guide to the Christmas market in Strasbourg: the Christkindelsmärik or Marché de Noël de Strasbourg. I hope that by reading this guide, the Capital of Christmas will no longer hold any secrets for you.
Information was updated in November 2023.
What you’ll discover in this Christmas guide!
I took great care in writing an article to be as complete as possible. It is based on my visits to the Strasbourg Christmas market. Here’s what you’ll get:
- the history of the Strasbourg Christmas market: from the Middle Ages to the present day.
- the discovery trail of Christmas in Strasbourg: the itinerary I created and followed to explore the great sites of Christmas in the Grande Île.
- my helpful tips: accommodation, restaurants, access and public transport, dates and times, when to come and avoid the crowd, weather, what to wear, cultural events, activities, location of public washrooms, links to useful websites…
Thank you for reading this guide and Joyeux Noël! 🎄
The history of the Strasbourg Christmas market
From the origins of the medieval Christmas market to the 2020s, this exceptional Strasbourg event boasts a rich history… let’s go back in time.
The Strasbourg Saint-Nicolas market
In the Middle Ages, Strasbourg organised a Saint-Nicolas market (Klausenmärik) on the cathedral square. This type of market was familiar to many towns in the Holy Roman Empire. Therefore, a Saint-Nicolas market had been attested in Vienna, Austria, since 1294.
The commercial event took place around the 6th of December, the date of the feast of Saint Nicholas (Saint-Nicolas in French). There were stalls selling gingerbread, fabric, clothes, candles, and other local produce.
The Child Jesus market
The Reformation changed it all. The cult of the saints wasn’t in the odour of sanctity with the protestants. The Saint-Nicolas market was seen as a “survival of the papacy”. Also, in 1570, the protestant preacher Johannes Flinner launched from the cathedral’s pulpit a call to abandon the cult of the saints once and for all.
The Council of the XXI (a sort of municipal council) was persuaded and forbade the Saint-Nicolas market to take place. From now on, the children should know that Child Jesus offered their presents and not Saint-Nicolas!
However, there have been winners and losers. The latter were the stall keepers. They had everything to lose from the cancellation of the market. To please them, the municipal council tried to straddle the fence. It agreed to open a market which would take place on the last week before the 25 December. Thus centred on the Feast of the Nativity, the market was renamed “Christkindelsmärik“. This means, in English, the Market of Child Jesus. This is the year 1570. The year when the ‘modern’ Christmas market was born. Other German cities would eventually transform their Saint-Nicolas markets into Christmas markets: Nuremberg in 1628, Vienna in 1764, and Munich in 1806.
The location of the Christmas market in Strasbourg changed many times. The first editions took place in Cathedral Square. In 1863, the Christkindelsmärik was organised in the Place Kléber. It was then associated with the Christmas Fair that took over from Boxing Day (26 December) and lasted 18 days.
The market found its last location in Place Broglie in 1870. At that time, the stalls (with their sheet stretched on wooden studs) were replaced by small wooden chalets.
In 1991, the Strasbourg Christmas market was spread across several old town locations. It returned to its original place on the cathedral square.
France’s premier Christmas market
When I started researching the Christmas market traditions, I was surprised to learn that Strasbourg was the only market organised in France until the 1980s. Mulhouse, Colmar, Montbéliard, Metz and Kaysersberg are much more recent. At the time, the Christmas market phenomenon was only limited to Germanic lands (Germany, Austria, etc.).
The renewal of the Christmas market
Besides, towards the end of the 1980s, the Strasbourg Christmas market seemed to run out of steam. Its renewal was due to the Alsatian Hotel Owners’ Association. The occupancy rates were considered insufficient (36%). December and January were the months of the year with the lowest numbers of visitors. The regional authorities decided to work on promoting Strasbourg and Alsace during the festive season.
After a few years, the tenacity of the Alsace region began to bear fruit. With broad media coverage, France could hear about the great Christmas event.
In 1992. the municipality introduced the concept of “Strasbourg, Capital of Christmas“. As soon as 1994, under the mayorship of Catherine Trautmann, a giant Christmas tree was set up in place Kléber.
The Christmas market madness spread across all of France
Strasbourg inspired others. First in Alsace. Most of the region’s towns started organising their Christmas markets: Colmar, Mulhouse, Haguenau, Sélestat, and Obernai… with a special mention to Kaysersberg. The little wine town was among the first to hold a traditional Christmas market (1987).
Then, in the 2000s, Christmas madness took over the whole country. In Paris, until 2016, a giant Christmas market (far from the Strasbourg tradition) had taken place on the Champs-Elysées. The main cities of France felt compelled to open their markets, regardless of their habits: from Rouen to Lille and Nice to Toulouse.
The success of a Christmas market exported abroad!
Faced with this success, the Christmas Market in Strasbourg was invited by major capitals of the world: Tokyo (2009 and 2010), Moscow (2012 and 2013), Beijing (2015), Taipei (2016) and Seoul (2017).
In 2019, the Strasbourg Christmas market celebrated its 450th edition since its creation.
Also in 2019, New York City hosted the “Strasbourg-Alsace Christmas market” (Marché de Noël de Strasbourg-Alsace). Around thirty wooden chalets took over Bowling Green Park (Lower Manhattan), next to the site of the original Dutch fort of New Amsterdam. The event took place from 6 to 22 December and was organised by the Alsatian cities of Strasbourg, Mulhouse and Colmar. By the way, the latter is the hometown of French sculptor Bartholdi, who designed the Statue of Liberty.
New Yorkers and visitors admired the wonderful illuminated Christmas tree with hand-made ornaments. They discovered in the stalls items and local produce shipped from Alsace (pottery, household items, Christmas decorations…) without forgetting local produce: Alsatian sauerkraut, Flammenkuchen, gingerbread, and the famous bredeles (Alsatian Christmas cookies)… but not foie-gras as the speciality food product will be forbidden in NY from 2022.
The Christmas market after the pandemic
The 2020 edition of the Christmas market was promising, but the authorities cancelled it, like many other Christmas markets in Europe, due to the pandemic crisis.
However, the city wished to maintain the giant illuminated tree and the Christmas decorations in town (without the chalets). The only visitors were, therefore, the citizens of Strasbourg.
With two chaotic years (2020-21) marked by the coronavirus and bans, the Christmas market in Strasbourg was back in 2022 with a few adjustments.
A post-pandemic Christmas market
In the Grande Ile (the historical centre), the layout of the chalets is more spaced than before. Thus, the organisers have entirely revised the event to meet the health requirements.
The 314 chalets of the Strasbourg Christmas market are spread over 14 sites to improve circulation. The chalets are now spaced 6 to 8 metres apart instead of 4 metres previously.
This improved visibility by airing out the Christmas villages and giving pride of place to decorating facades and trees. For example, the town hall (Place Broglie) hosted a video mapping telling the story of the Christmas market.
In 2022, to cope with soaring energy prices, Strasbourg City Council decided to reduce the number of light decorations in Strasbourg by around 20%. The municipality aims to reduce electricity consumption by 10% during the festive event.
The Strasbourg Christmas market today
In 2014 and 2015, the Christmas market in Strasbourg was voted “Europe’s best Christmas Market” by the travel organisation Europe Best Vacation based on thousands of votes through social networks, ahead of famous destinations such as Vienna, Dresden, Nuremberg, Cologne and Basel.
Each year, from the end of November to Christmas, the event welcomes 2.5 to 3 million visitors (in comparison, the metropolis of Strasbourg has a population of 475,000). In 2022, the Christmas market received 2.8 million visitors.
To banish “made in China” items and other products that don’t respect the traditions based on authenticity, the municipality has issued a 2011 Quality policy. A committee keeps watching the selection of stall keepers’ applications. This ensures that the nature and quality of the products offered for sale respect the local Christmas traditions.
In addition, more than 500 cultural events are organised during the Christmas market in Strasbourg: concerts, theatre plays, exhibitions, and shows…
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The guest country of the Strasbourg Christmas market
Each year, a guest country is invited to participate in the Strasbourg Christmas Market. It has the honour to set up its stalls at the market on place Gutenberg:
- 2009 – Russia
- 2011 – Switzerland
- 2012 – Georgia
- 2013 – Croatia (as the new member of the EU)
- 2014 – Belgium
- 2015 – Luxembourg
- 2016 – Portugal
- 2017 – Iceland
- 2018 – Finland
- 2019 – Lebanon
- 2020 – the Christmas market was cancelled due to the pandemic
- 2021 – Germany (with Strasbourg’s twin cities, Dresden and Stuttgart)
Since 2022, the guest country concept seems to have been discontinued, as no official communication has provided any clear information on the subject.
The most beautiful Christmas trail in Strasbourg
In December 2018, we went on a Christmas trip to Alsace-Lorraine. It was made up of 10 stages, from Nancy to Mulhouse. The 6th stage brought us to Strasbourg, a must-see destination for Christmas!
This stage allowed me to update my knowledge of the event, as my previous visit dates back to 2012. Within six years, many things had changed. Nowadays, the villages of Christmas are only found within the limits of the Grande-Île to enhance overall coherence and reinforce security.
I’m pleased to present you this Christmas trail through the streets of Strasbourg.
It allowed me to discover the most beautiful Christmas sites in Strasbourg: the Christmas markets, the grand Christmas tree, the street decorations, and the illuminations. Without forgetting the giant Nativity scene at the cathedral. Follow the guide!
[Click here to display the itinerary on Google Maps]
About the itinerary :
- Length of the discovery trail: 5.5 km (3.4 miles)
- Duration of the walk: from 3 to 4 hrs… but it will take much longer if you take the time to explore the Christmas markets and wish to visit the city’s museums.
If the itinerary seems too long for you, follow it partially and/or cut it into two parts, such as:
- during the day – visit the cathedral and climb to the panoramic terrace, Batorama cruise of the River Ill, visit the museums (Œuvre Notre-Dame, Palais Rohan, Contemporary Arts museum…), shop in the old town…
- in the evening – the discovery of the Christmas markets and the street illuminations.
How long do you need to stay in Strasbourg?
To take full advantage of Christmas in Strasbourg (Christmas markets, museums, shopping, etc.), I recommend staying at least two full days (and definitely two nights!)
This Christmas trail in Strasbourg links all the Christmas markets across the old town, such as:
- The traditional Christkindelsmärik on Place Broglie
- The Christmas market on Place de la Cathédrale and Place du Château
- The Petite France district and the Three Kings market on place Benjamin Zix
- The Carré d’Or market on Place du Temple Neuf
- The great Christmas tree on Place Kléber
Let’s start the visit with our starting point: the hotel!
A comfortable hotel within walking distance of the Christmas market!
In 2018, we reached Strasbourg from the region of Haguenau by car. We parked our vehicle at the Hoenheim Gare Park-and-Ride. From there, we took the tram to Place de la République (I’ll tell you more in the useful tips section below).
But when we visited Strasbourg in 2012, we stayed at the Novotel Strasbourg-Centre-Halles****, 4 Quai Kléber. I grant you that the location does not cling to the idea of picture-postcard Strasbourg. But we found the hotel comfortable (and the rooms have since been renovated in 2017). A bonus is the proximity of the Christmas market and the railway station, which make it a perfect base.
And the view from our room gave onto the lively quays of the River Ill and the tram station “Ancienne Synagogue Les Halles“.
The day is coming to an end. Now that the suitcases have been unpacked, it is time to start our exciting Christmas Trail in Strasbourg…
Entering the Grande Île
Cross the River Ill on Pont de Paris.
Walk on rue du Noyer. To your left is the Printemps department store, renovated in 2013. Admire the Christmas shop windows. Cross the Place de l’Homme de Fer, a tram hub (lines A, B, C, D and E).
Proceed to the adjacent Place Kléber.
Place Kléber and Strasbourg’s Christmas tree
Here we are in the heart of Christmas in Strasbourg. Place Kléber is an inevitable crossroads for the people of Strasbourg and visitors alike. This is definitely due to the majestic Christmas tree.
Where does the tree come from?
The presence of a Christmas tree on the square is an unmissable Strasbourg Christmas tradition. Each year, a conifer from the Vosges mountains, around 30 metres high, is chosen and prepared by the National Forests Office (ONF). The one for the 2023 edition was cut in a forest at Cirey-sur-Vezouze in the Vosges region of Meurthe-et-Moselle. Decorated with great care, it symbolises Christmas in Strasbourg.
The Strasbourg Christmas tree from Lorraine? It’s starting to become a tradition. In 2021, the tree was cut down in a forest in Val-et-Châtillon, in the Meurthe-et-Moselle. Then, on 24 October 2022, forest wardens felled a large fir in a Lorraine forest between Saulcy-sur-Meurthe and Saint-Léonard.
Decorated with great care, the tree symbolises the festive season in Strasbourg.
Its preparation and decoration require many hours of work. It includes 250 ornaments, 6.5 km of light garland, and 7 km of electric cables… and each light is an LED to reduce energy consumption significantly.
The top of the Christmas tree in 2018 © French Moments
The themes of the Christmas tree
Besides, the ornamentation is renewed each year according to a specific theme.
- In 2018, the theme was “Letter to Father Christmas“. In addition to light baubles and stars, there were office stamps, mailboxes, and children’s drawings…
- The theme for 2019 is “Yesteryear Toys“. The organisers wished to replace children at the heart of the festivities. On the tree are spinning tops, small cars, rocking horses, dolls and elves.
- In 2020, the Christmas tree was maintained despite the cancellation of the Christmas market due to the pandemic. The theme was “Simplicity and Authenticity“. The decoration included flashing baubles, stars and lights, and giant candles that recall the authenticity and simplicity of Christmas in the past.
- In 2021, the theme for the comeback of the Christmas market after the cancellation of the previous year was “Let’s light up the stars“. This invitation to dream, to marvel and to live a unique experience corresponds to a Christmas where traditions are perpetuated and where we prepare to live and share a magical, fairy-tale, authentic and united moment.
- The 2022 theme is the snowflake. It is a symbol that echoes magic and enchantment but also the fragility and vulnerability of the world in which we live. The 2022 edition is placed under the auspices of sharing, solidarity and ecology, with magic and friendliness as the high points.
- The theme for 2023 is the heart. In the words of the Mayor of Strasbourg, it represents “a protective symbol that repels bad omens and evil spirits, which is also very much in evidence in traditional Alsatian interiors”.
The Alsatian village under the tree
Under the tree, notice a model of an Alsatian village with houses lit from the inside. It reproduces a typical village in Alsace with its Catholic and Protestant churches.
The scenography you won’t want to miss!
One has to admire the majestic tree at nightfall when it sparkles. Make sure to come in place Kléber just before 5 pm (from 26 Nov. 2022 to 8 Jan. 2023). Then, the great tree comes to life during a 5-minute-long light and sound show. Really astonishing!
The lighting of the tree takes place at 5 pm, 6 pm, 7 pm and 8 pm (with music), 9 pm, 10 pm and 11 pm (without music).
The outdoor ice-skating rink by the Christmas tree
Until recently, the square welcomed an outdoor ice-skating rink in front of the long façade of the Aubette building. It was not back for the 2022 and 2023 editions.
The Village of Sharing
Place Kléber welcomes a large Christmas market with 138 chalets. In Strasbourg, it was the tradition among the locals to come and put presents under the tree for the neediest. This generous move continues today. The Village of Sharing has naturally found its place next to the Christmas tree.
The chalets of this distinctive Christmas market exclusively house charitable associations. This presence in the city’s heart allows the visitors to help the neediest with donations.
Walk down the street of Rue des Grandes Arcades towards Place Gutenberg. This shopping street is illuminated with light garlands in the shape of giant twinkling manneles (gingerbread men) framed by two red curtains.
The Christmas market in Place Gutenberg and the blue tree
Place Gutenberg is a vibrant square with a great atmosphere on any given day of the year. During the Advent period, the place is enchanting at nightfall thanks to its Christmas market and its… blue tree!
The Blue Tree is a luminous decoration that has found its place in Strasbourg for many years. This grand tree is accompanied by a blue bear that children enjoy.
Each year, the chalets and wooden sheds of the square host the stall keepers of the guest country of the Strasbourg Christmas market. Visitors are invited to discover that particular country’s artisanal, cultural and gastronomic Christmas traditions.
From Place Gutenberg, head to the cathedral by rue Mercière.
The Christmas lights of rue Mercière
If there is one place in Strasbourg that I found remarkable for taking photos, it is the majestic perspective of Rue Mercière. It leads to the no-less magnificent façade of the lofty Gothic cathedral.
The sight of the cathedral’s western front behind garlands of luminous angels sounding the trumpet is breathtaking.
It is a very photogenic place… it makes a great post on Instagram 🙂
Observe the beautiful Christmas decorations on the windows of the Bollinger House (at the corner of the street to the right).
Walk along rue Mercière all the way to Place de la Cathédrale.
Strasbourg Christmas market on the Cathedral Square
We’re surrounded by the festive atmosphere…
A lofty Gothic cathedral wonderfully lit up at night, wooden chalets decorated with great care, luminous garlands above us, half-timbered façades surrounding the square… what more could we ask for?
Right here, we realise we are indeed in the Capital of Christmas. What we’ve seen so far was great, but here is the ultimate place!
The square of the cathedral hosts a Christmas market dedicated to handicrafts. In their wooden sheds, the stall-keepers offer quality items for sale in reference to preparing Christmas (decorations…) and gift ideas (wooden toys, teddies…). Without forgetting, eating areas with a great range of Alsatian food (pretzels, manneles, kugelhopf and the traditional mulled wine).
The Nativity scene in the cathedral
The magnificent tapestry of the cathedral
Another great discovery inside the cathedral: the tapestries from the 17th century suspended in the nave.
This fantastic collection of 14 tapestries is only displayed during the Advent period. They relate to the life of the Virgin Mary. Richelieu commissioned them for Notre Dame de Paris. The Cathedral of Strasbourg acquired the collection in 1739.
The giant Advent Wreath suspended in the nave is made by local florists from Strasbourg.
Leave the cathedral and turn to the left towards the adjacent place du château.
Strasbourg Christmas market on place du château
Place du château is a square bordered by the cathedral, the old building of the Œuvre Notre-Dame museum, and the historic complex of Palais Rohan.
Recently renovated, the square welcomes the chalets of a small Christmas market.
A chalet stands out from the others: La Féérie de Noël – Käthe Wohlfahrt. If you follow my blog, you’d probably have crossed that name before… Indeed, it is the famous Christmas store in Riquewihr (an Alsatian village on the Wine Route) and Rothenburg ob der Tauber in Germany.
Join the cathedral square and enter the narrow rue du Maroquin to the left.
The Christmas decorations in Rue du Maroquin
What makes the Strasbourg Christmas Market successful is the involvement of shopkeepers and residents in decorating their façades, windows and balconies.
The Rue du Maroquin is certainly no exception to the rule.
At nightfall, decorations and illuminations do the trick to create an enchanting atmosphere.
This lovely street gives onto place du marché-aux-cochons-de-lait.
Place du marché-aux-cochons-de-lait
Literally “Square of the market of suckling pigs“… what an odd name, you may say! But forget that for an instant, as this charming little square is a real treat for the eyes!
The light garlands and the spire of the cathedral provide beautiful scenery.
At the end of the square, turn left to reach the place du marché-aux-poissons.
The Alsatian Christmas delicacies market around Palais Rohan
Around Palais Rohan, several chalets made up for the Market of Alsatian Christmas delicacies. Stroll on rue Rohan, place du marché aux poissons and the patio of Palais Rohan to tickle your taste buds to the max!
Walking past the chalets was a mouth-watering experience for us. We loved going from one chalet to another, discovering the best of Alsatian gastronomy. And the list is rather long: bredeles, beers, gingerbread, mulled wine, Alsatian wines, foie gras…
There, we had great encounters:
- the bakers of Strasbourg and region,
- the wine growers of the Couronne d’Or,
- the local farmer-producers of foie gras,
- the Tribe of the Alsatian Wine Gourmets, and
- the corporation of traditional brewers.
As for us, we had our eyes wide open for the multitude of bredeles: butterbredle, schwoewebredle, zimtsterne, makrone, anisbredle, anisschnitte… You don’t understand their names? Well, it doesn’t really matter; you’ll have long forgotten these tricky names once tasted!
From the patio of Palais Rohan, which borders the River Ill, make your way to rue du Vieux Marché-aux-Poissons via place de la Grande Boucherie.
The Gate of Lights, “Strasbourg, capital of Christmas”
The famous light arch stands at the intersection of rue du Vieux-Marché-aux-Poissons and Pont au Corbeau. You’ve probably seen the one on promotional brochures, magazines or news stories.
The Gate of Lights is a tall arch twinkling in gold and white, supported by two giant bears. It marks the (southern) entrance to Strasbourg, the Capital of Christmas. It opens onto rue du Vieux-Marché-aux-Poissons, continued by rue des Grandes Arcades, all the way to the great Christmas tree in place Kléber. This shopping street is decorated with light garlands in the shape of manneles (that we’ve seen before).
As for us, the trail leads to other horizons!
The bridge of Pont du Corbeau and the courtyard of Cour du Corbeau
Cross the bridge of Pont du Corbeau (and by the way, make sure you admire the view of the historic buildings of the Great Butchery and the Old Customs) to join Place du Corbeau.
Find the passageway signalled by the illuminated sign: “Hôtel**** Cour du Corbeau”.
Once under the porch, you’ll find one of Strasbourg’s most beautiful inner courtyards: la cour du Corbeau. With its corbel arches, sculpted window frames, and its small wooden footbridge, this courtyard is a fine example of Renaissance architecture in the Rhine region. The site hosts a hotel****, which provides beautiful Christmas decorations.
Retrace your steps to the Grande Île and turn left on rue de la Douane.
Rue des Tonneliers
Notice the little Rue des Tonneliers on your right. Hung above the street are 22 twinkling barrels. This is a reference to the history of the street. Tonneliers is French for cooper. In the past, barrels delivered to the docks were rolled onto the little street on their way to the old town’s shops.
Then walk along the Quai Saint-Thomas by the River Ill. Turn right on rue Jean Sturm to reach place Saint-Thomas.
Strasbourg Christmas market in place Saint-Thomas
Place Saint-Thomas welcomes a convivial Christmas market much appreciated by residents.
The protestant church of Saint-Thomas is ancient (construction started in 1196). The massive tower is of Romanesque style. The sanctuary became a protestant church in 1524.
Walk down rue de la Monnaie, followed by rue des Dentelles.
Rue des Dentelles and its boutiques
Rue des Dentelles is a picturesque shopping street in Strasbourg. You won’t find the best and worst of your high-street shops here. This is the place for a few worth-mentioning stores…
Here are a few excellent and useful spots:
Souvenir shop Bequia (14, rue des Dentelles) specialises in gifts and souvenirs from Alsace.
Pain d’épices Mireille Oster (14, rue des Dentelles). A true institution in Strasbourg. Well, everybody knows that Christmas rimes with gingerbread. This is a golden opportunity to get delicious treats made with passion! 👉 Find out more: the website of Mireille Oster
Plaisirs d’Alsace (13, rue des Dentelles). A boutique dedicated to Alsace! It offers for sale made in Alsace items according to traditional craftsmanship: pottery, Kelsch fabric, decorations… 👉 Find out more: the website of Plaisirs d’Alsace
Un Noël en Alsace (10, rue des Dentelles). This boutique is dedicated to Christmas and is open all year round! You’ll find a great range of Christmas decorations, some of which are difficult to find elsewhere in France. 👉 Learn more: the website of Un Noël en Alsace
Place Benjamin Zix and its Christmas market is at the end of Rue des Dentelles.
The Christmas market of La Petite-France
Place Benjamin Zix immerses us in the Christmas atmosphere of an Alsatian village. The historic district of La Petite-France is famous for its joie de vivre and the fine half-timbered houses from a bygone era.
As for now, a Christmas market takes over the little square, named for the occasion: “Three Kings Market” (le marché des Rois Mages). The Three Kings? They refer to the Wise Men. Raise your head to the top of the Tanners’ House, and you’ll see them watching over us!
The chalets of the Three Kings market offer local handicrafts.
And there’s always something to make us salivate: bredeles, mulled wine and Christmas beer.
The picture-postcard Rue du Bain-aux-Plantes
Take Rue du Bain-aux-Plantes, one of Strasbourg’s most touristy streets, with fine half-timbered houses from the Renaissance era.
Here is a photo of the street from place Benjamin Zix:
And there, rue du Bain-aux-Plantes seen from the intersection with rue des moulins:
You can also make a little detour by Rue des Moulins to admire the view from the little bridge.
From rue du Bain aux Plantes, a narrow passage (rue des Meuniers) allows you to reach the next stage: Place des Meuniers.
Strasbourg Christmas market in place des Meuniers
What’s the name of this Christmas market? The Market of the Dedicated Small Alsatian Producers (in French: “Le marché des irréductibles petits producteurs d’Alsace”).
Under this long name lies a great initiative: to give small local producers exclusive exposure.
Thus, under sparkling stars, these Alsatian producers are busy offering quality local products in small production:
- locally-made jams,
- hot apple juice,
- chocolate produced from the cocoa bean,
- mustard and horseradish,
- biodynamic Alsace wines,
- free-range Munster cheese made out of raw milk,
- garlic pesto,
- egg liquor,
- mushroom pies,
- organic vegetable soup,
- warm toasts…
Just around the corner is the OFF Christmas Market (Place Grimmeissen) I haven’t been able to visit because of a lack of time.
The market is an exciting and innovative concept where you’re invited to experience the festive season through mindful consumption.
After visiting the market in Place des Meuniers, take Rue du Fossé des Tanneurs to the left.
La Grand’Rue de Strasbourg à Noël
At the intersection with Grand’Rue, admire the giant chandelier with its many magical and tasty details.
Walk along Grand Rue up to the intersection with Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, then continue straight ahead on the Rue Gutenberg.
Grand’Rue follows the line of an ancient Roman way. This paved street, pleasant and fully pedestrian, is bordered by boutiques and buildings from the 16th to the 18th centuries.
Then, you reach Place Gutenberg:
Cross the square to get to Rue des Hallebardes.
The Baccarat chandeliers of rue des Hallebardes
Rue des Hallebardes is proud to present the passersby its light garlands… which are unique. Indeed, they were made by the famous Baccarat crystalware!
Since 1999, the Baccarat store (at 44, rue des Hallebardes) has been the origin of this splendid lighting.
Each of the nine crystal chandeliers is protected inside a glass box against theft and projectiles).
Absent in 2000 (they were in Athens) and in 2016 (they decorated rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré, Paris, for the inauguration of the new Baccarat store), the chandeliers are now part of the local Christmas decorations and participate in the reputation of the Lorraine crystalware.
On your right, the street opens onto Cathedral Square, where we were earlier. Make a little detour to admire the lofty church and the remarkable Kammerzell House to your left one last time.
Turn back and enter the narrow street of rue des Orfèvres.
The Christmas decorations of rue des Orfèvres
We are now entering one of these enchanting places that may have been copied but have never been equalled.
Rue des Orfèvres is a very narrow street – perhaps too narrow for some people who don’t like big crowds. On busy days, you’ll walk as fast as a snail!
The reason why this little street draws so much attention is simple. Just look around at the fabulous Christmas decorations on the façades. They have been installed by the shopkeepers of the Carré d’Or (the name given to this particular district).
Some of the most beautifully decorated façades
The products of some ill-famous stores equal the elaborate decorations of their façades:
- pâtisserie Naegel (number 9)
- chocolaterie Weiss (number 7)
- pharmacie de la Rose (number 6)
- fromagerie de la maison Lorho (number 3)
- artisan-boucher Frick-Lutz (number 16)
- Winstub Le Saint Sépulcre (number 15)
- pâtisserie Maison Gross (number 17)
- marchands de thé Dammann Frères (number 19)
- boulangerie Westermann (number 1)
The Christmas market in place du Marché-Neuf
Opposite number 5, we walked through a passageway to the small square of Place du Marché-Neuf. There, we found a little Christmas market dedicated to handicraft products.
Rue des Orfèvres leads to Place du Temple-Neuf and its Christmas market.
Strasbourg Christmas market in place du Temple-Neuf
The shopkeepers association of the Carré d’Or organises the Christmas market of Carré d’Or. It occupies the square in front of the protestant church, Temple Neuf.
In a festive atmosphere, you’ll find a wide range of quality products, such as:
- Christmas decorations (baubles, Advent wreaths),
- craft pottery,
- hats, wool felt, caps,
- decorative figurines in metal,
- scented soaps,
- little Alsatian houses made of terracotta,
- foie gras,
- organic honey,
- traditional sweets from the Vosges,
- roasted almonds,
- marrons glacés,
- fair-trade coffee roasted in Alsace,
- craft beers,
- mulled wine,
- and much more…
The Porcus butchery decoration
Before leaving the square, you’ll probably have noticed the façade of the Porcus Butchery. Each year, it is richly decorated with chef pigs!
Head to rue des étudiants. Notice at the corner with rue de l’Outre the painted façade of the pâtisserie Christian. It reminded me of the similar façades I saw in Mulhouse and Basel. The pastry shop is the origin of its Christmas decoration.
Follow rue des étudiants up to place Broglie.
Strasbourg’s oldest Christmas market: Christkindelsmärik
I saved the best for last!
Especially if you’re a big fan of Christmas decorations like me.
We learnt before that the history of the Strasbourg Christmas market started in 1570. Initially based in Cathedral Square, this market moved to different locations. This was until 1870, when it stayed for good in Place Broglie. At that time – and until the early 1990s, this was the only location of the Strasbourg Christmas market.
Let’s enter the legendary Christmas market by passing under a light arch, the Christkindelsmärik!
In the long Place Broglie
The market occupies the entire length of Place Broglie, where people wander through makeshift lanes created by rows of small wooden huts.
Again, on a busy day, you can’t walk at a speed of more than 1cm per hour!
In a shared chalet, various groups of skilled workers reveal their products and expertise to the curious: brewer, wood industry, upholsterer…
My favourite stalls at the Christkindelsmärik
However, my favourite stalls are those selling Christmas decorations. After all, what’s a Christmas market without any sellers of baubles, tinsels and other ornaments? At the Christkindelsmärik, there is something for every taste: carefully sorted ornaments by colour, tree toppers, light garlands (made in China, of course, for I’m not sure they make these in Alsace! 😉), beautiful Christmas pyramids, candle bridges. In fact, many Christmas decorations originate from neighbouring Germany!
The Christmas tree market
Finally, what I like in a Christmas market is the space left for selling Christmas trees. I love the scent of pine trees. We passed by the Christmas tree market in the daytime. It is situated near the statue of Maréchal Leclerc. The market also sells holly and mistletoe.
Despite the crowd, the Christkindelsmärik still have a convivial and warm atmosphere.
Back to square one!
All that remains for us is to find our way back to the hotel.
One last thing, though – when you walk on Rue de la Mésange, you’ll admire a new feature introduced in the 2019 edition: a forest of 22 giant trees of gold and white colours.
Other sites to discover off the trail
This itinerary makes an excellent base to explore Strasbourg at Christmas time. You can limit the walk to a few stages along the trail, particularly if you have a few days before you. However, there are several other sites to discover, which you’ll probably do during your visit.
This way, you only need to look more closely at these little (or big!) details that make Strasbourg the Capital of Christmas: light garlands, storefront decorations, the delicious smell of Christmas, and street animations…
A few more addresses…
If you don’t have enough of Christmas in Strasbourg, here’s a selection of other sites to see:
- Rue du 22 Novembre: raise your head to admire the 15 giant Christmas baubles sparkling in silver and gold.
- Ponts Couverts (Covered bridges): discover this historical site beyond the Petite-France district. I love it on a misty day or at sunset. Make sure you climb to the panoramic terrace of the Vauban dam for a unique view of the city and the cathedral in the distance.
- The Alsatian Museum: during the Advent period, the museum displays temporary exhibitions on the Christmas traditions in Alsace. You’ll learn more about the characters of Christmas: Saint-Nicolas, Hans Trapp, and Christkindel. 👉 Find out more.
- La Promenade aux étoiles: recently rehabilitated, the quays of the River Ill are illuminated with stars and fireflies. The bridges Saint-Nicolas, Corbeau and Rohan are also lit up. You’ll see historical buildings such as the Saint-Guillaume and Saint-Etienne churches, the Old Customs and the Alsatian Museum.
- The squares of Saint-Etienne, Mathias Mérian and Marché Gayot offer several workshops, animations and shows for kids, as well as concerts and musical shows.
- Les Galeries Lafayette (Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, just around the corner from Place Kléber), enter the department store if you fancy shopping while staying in Strasbourg! 👉 Find out more.
Strasbourg Christmas market: useful tips
Before ending this comprehensive article on the Strasbourg Christmas market, here are a few useful tips to help you plan your stay and visit the capital of Alsace…
Your stay in Strasbourg
My advice: don’t wait until the last minute to book your stay in Strasbourg!
The Christmas season in Strasbourg draws a huge crowd, and accommodation becomes scarce in the city. Just think, some tour operators book hotels more than a year ahead…
To book your accommodation in Strasbourg, click on this affiliate link, which will direct you to our partner booking.com, or navigate within the following map:
Eating in Strasbourg
You’ll find a vast choice of food options in each of the Christmas markets.
Most of them offer traditional Alsatian dishes such as sauerkraut, tartes flambées, pretzels, mulled wine, Christmas beers, bredeles, kugelhopf, gingerbread and more.
As for restaurants, you’ll be spoilt for choice, too. That said, if you want to taste authentic cuisine (not pre-cooked and/or not prepared in the restaurant), the advice is to look away from the main touristy sights.
However, a few restaurants do well in the historic centre… here’s a non-exhaustive list:
- Le Stras (9, Rue des Dentelles),
- Winstub Le Tire-Bouchon (5, Rue des tailleurs de pierre),
- Winstub Le Saint-Sépulcre (15, Rue des Orfèvres),
- Au Pont du Corbeau (21, Quai Saint-Nicolas).
- In 2012 we had a great meal at Aux Sales Gosses (56 Boulevard Clemenceau).
As it is Christmas time, if you can, remember to book your table in advance!
Dates and times of the Christmas market in Strasbourg
The 453rd edition of the Strasbourg Christmas Market takes place from 24 November to 24 December 2023. Throughout the city, the markets will be open every day from 11.30 am to 9 pm.
I advise you to visit the official site of the Christmas market to ensure the dates and times are correct. Indeed, some events can be modified or cancelled. For safety reasons, security forces can stop you and check your identity. If needed, the emergency number is 112.
How to break away from the crowd at the Strasbourg Christmas market?
For some people, the crowd doesn’t bother them. But if you’re like me, you’d hate these moments when too many people make the streets impracticable!
The narrow lanes of the Christmas markets and other small streets in town (such as rue des Orfèvres) are conducive to “pedestrian traffic jams”! It can easily lead to unpleasant moments. When your nerves are being tested… and if someone accidentally bumps into you, a glass of mulled wine in one hand, c’est la catastrophe!
I have two tips to give you:
- 1st Tip: avoid coming on weekends and during the French Christmas holidays. (21 December – 6 January) This advice also applies to all Christmas markets in Alsace-Lorraine.
- 2nd Tip: keep from going to the Christmas market on the first days following the inauguration (end of November). Media coverage is such that everybody wants to find out simultaneously…
However, these tips won’t help you much if you can only visit the Strasbourg Christmas market on the weekend.
Here are five things to think about:
1) Of all the Advent weekends, choose those during the first two weeks of December. That is between:
- the 2nd weekend after the inauguration and
- the last weekend before the start of the French school holidays.
2) fewer people visit the Christmas market in the morning… but in return, you won’t get to see the lights and experience the wonderful night atmosphere.
3) If you wish to visit the most popular sites (market of Place Broglie, Rue des Orfèvres…), choose Friday night or, even better, Sunday night. If possible, avoid Saturday night.
4) Beware the week when MEPs meet in plenary sessions at the European Parliament. Most hotels in Strasbourg will sell out.
5) Finally, to avoid the crowd, there’s a radical way: come to Strasbourg starting 26 December. Most Christmas markets will be closed, BUT the Christmas lights and decorations will still be in place.
As for me, I choose to visit the Strasbourg Christmas Market on a Friday, one week after its inauguration. As you can see in my photos, the crowd was not that big, and I could take many beautiful photos comfortably! 😃
How to get to Strasbourg?
Get to Strasbourg by train:
- from Paris Gare de l’Est, the TGV Est-Européen reaches Strasbourg in 1.50 hours only.
- TGV depart from Lille, Nantes, Dijon (2hrs) and Lyon (3.40hrs).
Strasbourg is linked to Paris and other main cities of France with an excellent motorway and road network:
- Paris-Strasbourg : 490 kms (4.50hrs)
- Basel-Strasbourg : 135 kms (1.50hrs)
- Bruxelles-Strasbourg : 440 km (4.35hrs)
- Caen-Strasbourg : 740 kms (7.15hrs)
- Calais-Strasbourg : 620 kms (5.40hrs)
- Cherbourg-Strasbourg : 860 kms (8.15hrs)
- Geneva-Strasbourg : 390 kms (4.15hrs)
- Le Havre-Strasbourg : 700 kms (6.30hrs)
- Lille-Strasbourg : 525 kms (5.20hrs)
- Lyon-Strasbourg : 490 kms (4.55hrs)
- Luxembourg-Strasbourg : 230 kms ( 2.50hrs)
- Saint-Malo-Strasbourg : 900 kms (8.25hrs)
The Alsatian capital has its airport (SXB) with regular flights to/from Ajaccio, Amsterdam, Barcelona, Biarritz, Bordeaux, Bruxelles, Lille, Lyon, Madrid, Marseille, Montpellier, Munich, Nantes, Nice, Pau, Rennes and Toulouse.
How to get around in Strasbourg?
The sites of the Strasbourg Christmas Market are all situated within the Grande Île, the central island dedicated to pedestrians for the occasion.
Prefer the Park-and-Ride (P+R)
If you come to Strasbourg by car, follow our example: park in one of the P+R car parks on the outskirts of town. In doing this, you’ll avoid the stress of driving in the city desperately looking for an empty car space.
For €4.20 (in 2022), we enjoyed a car slot for the whole day and a return ticket on the tramway for all the car occupants (€4.70 for P+R Rotonde).
My tip: check out the site strasmap.eu to know the location and occupancy rates of each P+R car park in real-time.
The public transport network in Strasbourg
The tram network of Strasbourg is modified during the Christmas market (24 Nov to 24 Dec). This concerns the tram lines that cross the Grande Île:
- Broglie station (trams B, C and F): closed for the duration of the Christmas market
- and Langstross Grand’Rue and Alt Winmärik Stations (trams A and D): not served from 11 am to 8 pm.
The closest stations to the Grande Île which are served as usual are:
- Place de l’Homme de Fer station (trams A, B, C, D and F)
- Ancienne Synagogue Les Halles Station (trams A and D)
- Faubourg National Station (trams B and F)
- République Station (trams B, C, E and F)
- and Porte de l’Hôpital Station (trams A and D)
What’s the weather like in the Strasbourg Christmas market?
Of course, I’m no divining rod… and I won’t be able to predict the weather during your visit to the Strasbourg Christmas market.
However, one can’t deny that December in Europe (particularly in Alsace) is cold.
Overall, the weather in December 2017 and 2018 was pretty awful.
- During the day, the average temperatures ranged from 6°C to 8°C.
- At nightfall, temperatures averaged 6°C to 8°C.
- That being said, temperatures can fall below 0°C.
Usually, Strasbourg receives a lot of rain in December (116mm in 2017 and 133mm in 2018).
All of this means that you have to wear it accordingly.
What should you wear at the Strasbourg Christmas market?
- Put on warm clothes you feel comfortable with. A warm coat will do.
- Wear gloves, a scarf and, if needed, a cap or a hat
- Put on a good pair of comfortable shoes (you’ll walk a lot!). Why not wear shoes with thick soles to protect your foot from the cold pavement?
- Take your umbrella with you.
Here are a few ideas to get you warmed up:
- Drink a glass of mulled wine at the Christmas market
- Some food areas provide outdoor heating
- Visit the city’s museum
- Take on a cruise on the River Ill with Batorama
Join the Christmas cultural events in Strasbourg!
Strasbourg at Christmas time is not just about Christmas markets.
The Advent period allows everyone to join a significant number of cultural events.
For a complete list of events, exhibitions, workshops and shows, check out the official programme of Strasbourg, the Capital of Christmas. Here are a few examples:
- Touristic cruise on the River Ill with Batorama. The great idea is to rest after a long walk in the city centre. We took place inside a heated boat – a true glass bubble – and enjoyed discovering the city from the water. Children will love following the adventures of Captain Hans Trapp and his parrot, Coco as they are looking for Santa’s elves.
- The Tourist Office of Strasbourg organises guided tours. Talks are led by a guide (approximately 1.30 hrs). Night walks in the illuminated city are also offered.
- Treasure hunt in Santa Claus’s footsteps to discover Alsace’s Christmas traditions and customs.
- Christmas Mass at the Cathedral, organised by the Christmas market stallholders and traders and the chaplaincy of festivity craftsmen. 24 December at 7 pm.
- Christmas-themed talks – locally known as Stammtisch de Noël at the Old Customs House (held in French!)
- The Four Advent Concerts. Strasbourg celebrates the Advent period with four exceptional concerts (free entrance, subject to available space).
- Christmas concerts. Various locations (cathedral, churches…) welcome Christmas concerts during the festive season.
Activities and tourist visits in Strasbourg
Click on the following link to get access to a wide range of activities and touristic visits in Strasbourg:
Where can you find the public toilets in Strasbourg?
What about satisfying a natural need in Strasbourg? Great news, there are several public toilets across the city centre:
- near the cathedral, Place du Château (Sunday to Thursday, 7 am-8 pm, Friday until 9 pm and Saturday until 10 pm)
- Place d’Austerlitz (Sunday to Thursday, 7 am-8 pm, Friday until 9 pm and Saturday until 10 pm)
- near the Christmas tree, Place Kléber (Sunday to Thursday, 7 am-8 pm, Friday until 9 pm and Saturday until 10 pm)
- Place Broglie (Sunday to Thursday, 7 am-8 pm, Friday until 9 pm and Saturday until 10 pm)
- next to the Vauban dam and Covered Bridges (Ponts Couverts), Place du quartier blanc (every day from 7 am-8 pm)
- opposite the Saint-Guillaume protestant church, quai des pêcheurs (everyday from 7am-8pm)
These opening hours are in place during the Christmas market until 24 December.
And, of course, make the most of it in restaurants, cafés, department stores, museums, theatres, and administrative buildings.
Strasbourg is an ideal base to discover Northern Alsace at Christmas time!
Strasbourg, the head city of the Bas-Rhin département, is ideally located for discovering other Christmas markets. A few ideas:
- The Christmas market in Obernai
- To the South, the Sélestat Christmas market
- The Winter Wonderland in Saverne
- The Christmas market in Haguenau
- At the north tip of Alsace, the authentic Christmas market of Wissembourg
And in Germany:
- The 30 most beautiful Christmas markets in Germany
- Kehl Christmas market, easily accessible by tram from Strasbourg-centre (find out more)
- distant of 60 km, the Christmas market of Baden-Baden
- The Christmas market of Karlsruhe (find out more)
- Adventsmarkt – the Advent market in Gengenbach
- The Christmas market of Heidelberg
Find out more on the web
- Read this article in French on our blog Mon Grand-Est.
- The official site of Christmas in Strasbourg
- Strasbourg’s Tourist Board site
- The page “Christmas in Alsace” sur le site Visit.Alsace
- To get around in Strasbourg: the site of the Compagnie des Transports Strasbourgeois (CTS)
- The list of public toilets in Strasbourg
When sharing your photos of the Strasbourg Christmas Market on social media, use the hashtags #CapitaledeNoël and #FrenchChristmas.