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My American friend Ellen from the blog TWOBOOMERSABROAD went to Paris for an unforgettable month last September-October. Before she left, she told me all the Parisian restaurants she hoped to try while there. I followed her Facebook posts with great interest as she went from arrondissement to arrondissement looking for the best restaurants, brasseries and cafés.

When she returned home to the States, I asked her if she would like to share her dining experience in Paris on this blog. She kindly agreed. So, I am pleased to share with you my friend Ellen’s gastronomic journey in Paris with lots of good addresses. I hope you will find them helpful if you plan a trip to Paris this year.

And as we say so well in France: bon appétit!

Tell me in the comments at the bottom of the article if you have any Parisian restaurants to recommend!

[lwptoc]

How Many Parisian Restaurants Can You Try in 31 Days?

The answer is…a lot! 

I recently returned from a blissful month in Paris.

I mainly stayed in apartments with the intention of eating lunch in a restaurant when I was out and about during the day and making my own dinner at night “chez moi”.

But as is often the case with best-laid plans, it was too tempting to eat out, so most dinners were eaten in restaurants.

I’m not a foodie but I appreciate good food and wine. Of course, some restaurants were better than others, but I can honestly say that I didn’t have a bad meal during the month.

And if you’ve had wine in France, you probably know how good it is and how affordable it is there. Often the house wine is just as good as other wines on the menu and usually at least a Euro or two less expensive per glass. 

In this article I’ll highlight the restaurants that I particularly liked, listed by arrondissement.

Ellen in Paris © Ellen Corrandini
Ellen in Paris (September 2021) © Ellen Corradini

La Rose de France

24 Place Dauphine, 1st arrondissement

Parisian restaurant - La Rose de France © Ellen Corrandini
Outside La Rose de France © Ellen Corradini

Whether you eat there or not, you should visit the Place Dauphine on Ile de la Cité just off the Pont Neuf.  It’s a charming square with quite a few restaurants.

La Rose de France had been recommended to me and it lived up to its reputation. We had lunch outside on a warm late September day and it was wonderful. Later in the month I stopped for an afternoon snack and ordered a cheese board which was delicious.

This was my chèvre-chaud salad, as good as it was artistically presented.

La Rose de France © Ellen Corrandini
Chèvre-chaud salad at La Rose de France © Ellen Corradini

Robert et Louise

64 Rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd arrondissement

Parisian restaurants - Robert et Louise © Ellen Corrandini
Outside Robert et Louise © Ellen Corradini

My son and daughter-in-law joined me for a few days and wanted to treat me to a belated birthday dinner – my choice of restaurant. Again, based on recommendations, I chose Robert et Louise in the Marais. It’s as popular as it is good, so reservations are a must. It definitely lived up to its reputation!

Robert et Louise © Ellen Corrandini
Robert et Louise © Ellen Corradini

It has two levels for dining and we chose the lower (underground) level which was warm and cozy.

Robert et Louise © Ellen Corrandini
Robert et Louise © Ellen Corradini

Les Philosophes

28 Rue Vieille du Temple, 4th arrondissement (Marais)

Parisian Restaurants - Les Philosophes © Ellen Corrandini
Les Philosophes © Ellen Corradini

Les Philosophes is right in the middle of the Marais and has been around for ages. I had a delicious boeuf bourguignon with friends one evening. Like most good restaurants, it was crowded and the only downside was that it was somewhat noisy.


Aux Anysetiers Du Roy

61 Rue Saint-Louis en L’Ile, 4th arrondissement (Ile Saint-Louis)

Parisian restaurants - Aux Anysetiers du Roy © Ellen Corrandini © Ellen Corrandini
Inside Aux Anysetiers du Roy © Ellen Corradini

Although I feel that all the restaurants in this article were good and worthy of discussion, some stood out. 

Aux Anysetiers Du Roy is one of those. It’s a tiny hole-in-the-wall on the rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile.

My daughter and I both had boeuf bourguignon and I can say it is one of the best meals I’ve ever had. I recommended it to some friends and they also loved it. And like so many small restaurants in France, the atmosphere was as good as the food.

Aux Anysetiers du Roy © Ellen Corrandini
Bœuf bourguignon at Aux Anysetiers du Roy © Ellen Corradini

L’Auberge de la Reine Blanche

30 Rue Saint-Louis en l’Île, 4th arrondissement (Ile Saint-Louis)

Parisian restaurants - L'Auberge de la Reine Blanche © Ellen Corrandini
Outside L’Auberge de la Reine Blanche © Ellen Corradini

Just down the street is L’Auberge de la Reine Blanche. This was the third or fourth time I’ve eaten there and I’ve never been disappointed. The food, wine and service are all outstanding.

L'Auberge de la Reine Blanche © Ellen Corrandini
My meal at L’Auberge de la Reine Blanche © Ellen Corradini

Au Lys d’Argent

90 Rue Saint-Louis en l’Île, 4th arrondissement (Ile Saint-Louis)

Parisian Restaurant - Au Lys d'Argent © Ellen Corrandini
Inside the Parisian restaurant: Au Lys d’Argent © Ellen Corradini

Another Ile Saint-Louis hit. I’ve actually lost count of how many times I’ve been here.

If you want the best crêpes and galettes in Paris, Au Lys d’Argent is a must. It’s owned by the man in the photo and his wife. Now when I arrive, he says, “the best crêpes and galettes in Paris, right?” because I tell him that every time I’m there.

Crêpe from Au Lys d'Argent © Ellen Corrandini
Crêpe from Au Lys d’Argent © Ellen Corradini

Le Saint-Régis

6 Rue Jean du Bellay, 4th arrondissement (Ile Saint-Louis)

Parisian restaurants - Le St Régis © Ellen Corrandini
Outisde Le St Régis © Ellen Corradini

Le Saint-Régis is my go-to café on Ile Saint-Louis, especially for breakfast. I’ve also had lunch there – a delicious chèvre-chaud salad.

Le St Régis © Ellen Corrandini
Inside Le St Régis © Ellen Corradini

It’s on a very busy corner and on a nice day, it’s fun to sit outside and watch the crowds walk (and bike) back and forth between this island and Ile de la Cité.


L’Assiette Aux Fromages

25 Rue Mouffetard, 5th arrondissement

Parisian restaurants - L'Assiette aux Fromages © Ellen Corrandini
Outside L’Assiette aux Fromages © Ellen Corradini

Do you crave raclette or fondue? I was walking down rue Mouffetard one day and decided to try my first raclette at L’Assiette Aux Fromages.

Since this is the first time I’ve had it, I have nothing to compare it to, but it was darn good! And the decorations made me think I was actually in Switzerland.

L'Assiette aux Fromages © Ellen Corrandini
Inside L’Assiette aux Fromages © Ellen Corradini

Le Petit Châtelet

39 Rue de la Bûcherie (near Shakespeare & Co), 5th arrondissement

Parisian restaurants - Le Petit Châtelet © Ellen Corrandini
Outside Le Petit Châtelet © Ellen Corradini

You wouldn’t necessarily think that a restaurant in one of the most heavily-touristed areas of Paris could be so good, but it is.

Since we didn’t have a reservation, we arrived at Le Petit Châtelet at 7 pm when they opened for the evening and were graciously given a table. I’ll definitely be back.

This lovely lady spent quite a while toasting bread over the open flame – it was so good!

Le Petit Châtelet © Ellen Corrandini
Inside Le Petit Châtelet © Ellen Corradini

Au Père Louis

30 rue Monsieur le Prince, 6th arrondissement

Parisian restaurants - Au Père Louis © Ellen Corrandini
Au Père Louis, a typical sign of Parisian restaurants © Ellen Corradini

During my recent trip, my husband joined me for the first week and we stayed in the 6th arrondissement on rue de Vaugirard.

We decided to stay close to the hotel the first night and ended up at a lovely little restaurant at the corner, Au Père Louis.

We actually ate there a couple of times. Both the food and the customer service are excellent and the atmosphere is inviting.

Parisian restaurants - Au Père Louis © Ellen Corrandini
Inside Au Père Louis © Ellen Corradini

This salmon was delicious.

Au Père Louis © Ellen Corrandini
My salmon dish – Au Père Louis © Ellen Corradini

Le Prince Racine

22 Rue Monsieur le Prince, 6th arrondissement

Parisian Restaurants - Café Le Prince Racine © Ellen Corrandini
Café Le Prince Racine © Ellen Corradini

Another neighborhood restaurant just down the street that I’ve frequented a number of times including during this trip is Café Le Prince Racine.

It’s casual, relatively inexpensive and the food and customer service are good. Unlike many other restaurants, it’s open all day so it doesn’t matter what time you want to eat.


Il Vicolo

34 Rue Mazarine, 6th arrondissement

Unfortunately, I didn’t take any photos of Il Vicolo (you can find some on their website). My son and daughter-in-law decided to detour from French food one night and we lucked upon this gem.

Owned by this Italian mother and her two sons, it was exquisite in every way. And we downed a bottle of Montepulciano which rivaled the French wines I had had during the month.


La Fontaine de Mars

129 Rue Saint-Dominique, 7th arrondissement

Parisian restaurants - La Fontaine de Mars © Ellen Corrandini
Outside La Fontaine de Mars © Ellen Corradini

This is the gold medal winner.

I had read and heard about how excellent it is, so one day when I was exploring the art nouveau of the 7th arrondissement I decided to try it for lunch.

I didn’t have a reservation (they asked), but I was happily given a table. It was a Wednesday and their special was coq au vin.

La Fontaine de Mars © Ellen Corrandini
The Coq au Vin from La Fontaine de Mars © Ellen Corradini

My mouth waters just thinking about it. The île flottante dessert melted in my mouth. Words don’t do this restaurant justice.

La Fontaine de Mars © Ellen Corrandini
The Ile Flottante from La Fontaine de Mars © Ellen Corradini

I wanted to return during the month but wasn’t able to, so it’s going to be one of the first restaurants I go to the next time I’m in Paris. 


Brasserie Bellanger

140 Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 10th arrondissement

Parisian Restaurants - Brasserie Bellanger © Ellen Corrandini
The outdoor of Brasserie Bellanger © Ellen Corradini

I had read about the Brasserie Bellanger, so while I was prowling the neighborhood I tried it for lunch.

The lunch crowd was mainly people from offices in the area; I’m sure I was the only non-French person there as this neighborhood isn’t one that tourists usually frequent. 

My croque-monsieur was delicious, and of course, it was washed down with a glass of Côtes du Rhône!

Parisian Restaurants - Brasserie Bellanger © Ellen Corrandini
Croque-monsieur at Brasserie Bellanger © Ellen Corradini

I normally don’t take photos of washrooms, but the sinks here were works of art!

Parisian Restaurants - Brasserie Bellanger © Ellen Corrandini
The brasserie’s washrooms © Ellen Corradini

Chez Prune

36 Rue Beaurepaire, 10th arrondissement (Canal St. Martin)

Parisian Restaurants - Chez Prune © Ellen Corrandini
Outside Chez Prune © Ellen Corradini

This hip little place had been on my radar for a while. I had lunch at Chez Prune while exploring the area around Canal Saint-Martin.

While the name may not elicit thoughts of culinary excellence, the food certainly did. My salad was excellent and I loved the eclectic atmosphere. On a nice day, sit outside and enjoy the canal.

Parisian restaurants - Chez Prune © Ellen Corrandini
Inside Chez Prune © Ellen Corradini

This was my wonderful Asian salad.

Chez Prune © Ellen Corrandini
Asian salad from Chez Prune © Ellen Corradini

La Boîte aux Lettres

108 Rue Lepic, 18th arrondissement (Montmartre)

Parisian restaurants - La Boîte aux Lettres © Ellen Corrandini
Inside La Boîte aux Lettres © Ellen Corradini

And finally, Montmartre. I spent four days in an apartment there and ate at a number of restaurants. I can honestly say that every meal was good, but two restaurants stood out.

La Boîte aux Lettres is considered one of the best restaurants in Montmartre. My daughter had also gifted me a belated birthday meal, so she and I had dinner here during our time in Montmartre. It was outstanding. Nondescript from the street, the interior is inviting and warm. 

I had steak and mashed potatoes which were as good as they look.

La Boîte aux Lettres © Ellen Corrandini
My meal steak and mashed potatoes at La Boîte aux Lettres © Ellen Corradini

I love how so many restaurants’ menus are chalkboards!

La Boîte aux Lettres © Ellen Corrandini
The menu – La Boîte aux Lettres © Ellen Corradini

La Maison Rose

2 Rue de l’Abreuvoir, 18th arrondissement (Montmartre)

Parisian restaurants - La Maison Rose © Ellen Corrandini
La Maison Rose in Montmartre, one of the most iconic Parisian restaurants © Ellen Corradini

La Maison Rose is probably one of the most photographed buildings in Paris for good reason.

It’s always busy but my daughter and I were lucky to get an outside table on a beautiful early October day. We didn’t see the inside, so I will have to wait for my next trip to Paris! I had a salad which was excellent. 

La Maison Rose © Ellen Corrandini
Ellen at La Maison Rose © Ellen Corradini

A note about eating in French and Parisian restaurants  

Be prepared to relax and not be rushed. 

Those of us in the US are used to the check being presented in warp speed, often before dessert. 

This is not the case in France where having a meal is an experience to be savored, not rushed. 

Escargots © Ellen Corrandini
Escargots at Robert et Louise © Ellen Corradini

In most cases in France, it’s necessary to ask for “l’addition”. It might be easy to become frustrated when you can’t get the attention of the server.

Bring a friend, a good book or your mobile device – or just take in your surroundings – and enjoy experiencing this part of French culture.

About Ellen

Ellen’s retirement job is writing about her travels in her blog, TWOBOOMERSABROAD. She is a lifelong francophile and spends as much time in France as she can.


Get A Table in Paris!

A few months ago I received this newly published book and I am taking the opportunity of this article about Parisian restaurants to introduce it to you. And guess what? Most of the restaurants Ellen visited and listed above are in the book!

A TABLE IN PARIS is an invitation to explore all that the Paris dining scene has to offer, through beautiful drawings, personal stories, and recommendations from those who know it best.

Book A Table in Paris

Discover the dining scene of Paris

Paris is a city like no other, beloved by travelers the world over for its incomparable architecture, atmosphere, arts, and, of course, food.

Parisian restaurants are rich in history, culture, and flavor.

Book A Table in Paris

Whether you’re a frequent visitor to the City of Light with memories of your favorite meals or an armchair traveler dreaming of the cuisine you could discover there, A Table in Paris will take you on a delicious visual journey through the arrondissements that you’ll never forget.

In his signature loose and evocative style, artist John Donohue has rendered an incredible sampling of the iconic institutions, hidden gems, and everything in between that make the Paris dining scene one of a kind.

Book A Table in Paris

Full of great Parisian restaurants recommendations for future trips to Paris!

Guided by recommendations from a breadth of locals, visitors, and experts, you’ll discover the Parisian restaurants one must visit and the dishes one must sample in pursuit of the perfect French meal.

The book also offers space for your Paris dining bucket list, food memories or dreams from each arrondissement, and notes on the establishments featured.

Restaurants hold a powerful place in our hearts, and a table in Paris is a must-have for anyone with epicurean visions of Paris in theirs.

Get A TABLE IN PARIS: The cafés, bistros, and brasseries of the World’s most romantic city by John Donohue.

Book A Table in Paris

Please note: this is a sponsored link to Amazon. If you’re planning a trip, using this link helps us keep things running. There’s no extra cost to you. All you have to do is click the link and any booking you make is automatically tracked. Thank you for your support!

Parisian restaurants: Pin it for later

Parisian Restaurants for Pinterest © Ellen Corrandini


 

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  1. Pierre, this article brings back such good memories, both culinary and general, of my month in Paris. There are so many good restaurants in Paris; I look forward to trying more with the help of John’s book when I return in April!

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Transparency: Some blog posts and pages may contain affiliate or sponsored links. If you are planning a trip, the use of these links helps us to run the site. There is no additional cost to you. All you have to do is click on the link and any booking you make is automatically tracked. Thank you for your support!

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