Discovering hidden spots on the Île de la Cité is like uncovering the soul of Paris.
When we lived in the Paris region, we often wandered through this historic island, far from the bustling tourist paths.
Join us as we reveal some lesser-known treasures of this timeless place.
Ready to explore the secrets of Île de la Cité? Let’s dive in!
My Hidden Spots on the Île de la Cité
When we lived in the Paris region, we took advantage of a beautiful sunny day to climb the towers of Notre Dame.
After admiring the breathtaking views, we continued our adventure, eager to uncover some hidden spots on the Île de la Cité.
This part of Paris is steeped in history and heritage, yet it remains largely unknown to the millions of tourists who visit the famous Gothic cathedral each year.
As we strolled through the northeastern part of the island, it felt like stepping back in time.
The hustle and bustle of modern Paris seemed to fade away, replaced by the serene atmosphere of cobbled streets and ancient buildings.
We discovered charming corners, tucked-away gardens, and quiet squares that few visitors ever see.
In the aftermath of the Great Fire
The devastating fire on 15 April 2019 significantly changed the dynamics of the neighbourhood.
Fortunately, the spire of Notre Dame has since been rebuilt, restoring some of the cathedral’s former glory.
However, the photos we share in this post were taken before the fire.
Join us on this journey through one of Paris’ most historic areas.
Now, let’s uncover the secrets of this timeless island and experience a side of Paris that remains beautifully untouched by time.
A few words about the Île de la Cité
The ship-shaped island of Île de la Cité includes grand monuments and vast complexes such as Notre Dame and the Palais de la Cité.
Since Ancient Times, it has been the historical heart of the city.
Today, tourists flock to the cathedral and the Sainte-Chapelle, crossing the Seine on one of the many bridges that connect the Right and Left banks to the island.
They wander from the Square du Vert Galant to the Pont-Neuf, the royal square of Place Dauphine and the beautiful Flower and Birds Market.
Haussmann’s great urban works
Since the mid-19th century, the wide boulevards have crossed the island from North to South.
Imposing administrative and Haussmannian buildings bordered Île de la Cité, giving it a completely different appearance.
No more medieval houses, no more slums, no more cut-throat narrow streets.
Baron Haussmann seems to have done a very good job, and the island as we see it today is nothing like what it was at the time of Quasimodo and Esmeralda… Or is it?
For as in the story of a famous Gaul, one small part of indomitable Lutetia still holds out against the invaders… (a little nod to Asterix!)
This little part of Île de la Cité, which has kept its authentic atmosphere, is little known by tourists who come by the millions to visit neighbouring Notre Dame.
If one takes the time, there is much to discover: the narrow cobblestone streets lined with peaceful buildings, a few bistros and boutique stores, medieval remains, romantic lampposts—a small world under the protection of the towering Notre Dame cathedral.
From the top of the towers of the cathedral, this little part of the island can be seen with its distinctive Parisian rooftops:
The entrance to this neighbourhood is located near the Pont Saint-Louis.
Rue Chanoinesse
One hundred metres further, turn right to Rue Chanoinesse.
A few residential buildings give a certain cachet to the street: some are typical Haussmannian blocks, and others are made with red bricks.
At the corner with Rue Massillon, there is a fine view of Notre Dame‘s spire which soars high above the roofs and chimneys.
Au vieux Paris d’Arcole
A bit further, still on 24 Rue Chanoinesse stands a very old inn: Au Vieux Paris d’Arcole.
This is the most Instagrammable façade on the Île de la Cité!
On its left is a curious cupcake store…
The house of the Vieux Paris d’Arcole dates from 1512, at a time when the construction of Notre Dame de Paris was nearing completion (although a signpost indicates it became an inn in 1594).
It is said that it housed the cathedral’s canon. Thus, for nearly six months, it was the home of a canon who became one of the popes of Avignon, Clement VIII.
The bishopric of Paris sold it in 1723 to become a wine bar.
This can still be seen in the exterior grille which protected the merchandise on display while ensuring good ventilation.
Listed as a historical monument, the house is distinguished by its magnificent floral and plant decoration.
Indeed, Au Vieux Paris d’Arcole benefits from an exemption as a “tourist exception”. Thus, the Paris City Council authorises the presence of a very imposing wisteria planted in 1946, 7 metres high and 22 metres long.
Rue de la Colombe and rue des Ursins
Turn right to Rue de la Colombe and once at the corner with Rue des Ursins, check behind you the typical Parisian scene.
We seem far away from the Haussmann Boulevards that are actually just across the street.
Walk along Rue des Ursins, a narrow street leading to the Quai aux Fleurs.
After passing Les Ursins’s small garden, the street is bordered by a stone house with medieval window frames.
Rue des Ursins takes its name from a mansion “Hôtel Ursin” dismantled in the 17th century. It was also called “Hell Street” in the 16th century.
Do not be fooled by appearances: this medieval-looking house was heavily restored in 1958 and was once owned by Aga Khan.
Rue des Chantres
The Rue des Chantres is one of Paris’ narrowest streets. Named after the cantors of the cathedral’s cloister, it is rather dark.
The spire of Notre Dame soaring high above Rue des Ursins can be seen from the Quai aux Fleurs.
Rue des Chantres leads back to Rue Chanoinesse from where it is easy to reach Notre-Dame Cathedral.
Find out more!
Find out more about the Ile de la Cité:
- Explore the island on the blog
- Notre-Dame de Paris: a guide to the Gothic cathedral
- Ile de la Cité on wikipedia
