Fontaine-Basse District, Gordes © French Moments
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Pierre

Last Updated: 20 February 2024

Most visitors to Gordes tend to stick to the upper reaches of the village, seldom making their way down. The prospect of climbing back up, facing a 70-meter elevation, can be somewhat daunting. My curiosity about the Fontaine Basse district was piqued by a tourist leaflet, and I was keen to delve deeper.

On a recent trip to Gordes, I made it a point to wander through this oft-overlooked area. I was so taken by its charm that I found myself returning just a week later.

Believing this part of the village warrants a dedicated blog post, I'm thrilled to share with you the quaint neighbourhood of "Lower Gordes".

Fontaine Basse District, Gordes © French Moments

The Fontaine Basse District viewed from above © French Moments

About the Fontaine Basse District

The "Bas de Gordes" or Lower Gordes, nestled at the village's base, is affectionately known as the "Quartier de Fontaine Basse", the district of the lower fountain. This tranquil part of Gordes, reminiscent of a forgotten village, is adorned with stone houses, hidden gardens, and the fragrance of fig trees.

Fontaine Basse District, Gordes © French Moments

The Fontaine Basse District, Gordes © French Moments

As you stroll along the alleyway, you'll see signs of a bygone era.

Chemin de Bel Air, Gordes © French Moments

Chemin de Bel Air, Gordes © French Moments

Chemin de Bel Air, Gordes © French Moments

Chemin de Bel Air, Gordes © French Moments

Rue Pavé d'Amour, Gordes © French Moments

Rue Pavé d'Amour, Gordes © French Moments

Rue de la Fontaine Basse, Gordes © French Moments

Pillars supporting the cliff (Rue de la Fontaine Basse) © French Moments

Angle turret, Fontaine Basse District © French Moments

Angle turret, Fontaine Basse District © French Moments

The former economic hub of Gordes

Historically, the abundance of water made this district the village's economic hub from the 18th to the early 20th century. It was a thriving center for tanneries, craftsmen, a silk spinning mill, shopkeepers, and cafés. Unfortunately, earthquakes in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, followed by German bombings in 1944, led to its decline.

Chemin de la Calade, Gordes © French Moments

Chemin de la Calade, Gordes © French Moments

Leatherwork and Shoemakers

The district was renowned for its leatherwork, supported by tanners and numerous shoemakers.

At one point in the 19th century, the shoemakers' guild boasted up to 400 members, all crafting shoes that were identical for both feet.

Provence under the clouds © French Moments

The lower village of Gordes © French Moments

Why the shoemaker industry in Gordes collapsed?

Back then, a single shoe model was used for both feet. However, Alexis Godillot (1816-1893), a manufacturer from Paris originally hailing from Besançon, introduced the revolutionary concept of creating distinct shoes for the right and left feet in 1854.

This innovative idea, though brilliant, led to the village losing its military market, resulting in the collapse of the business.

Interestingly, shoes made by Alexis Godillot were referred to as “godillots.”

This word was used by Vincent Van Gogh to title his painting of shoes in 1886.

Vincent van Gogh Les Godillots 1886

Vincent van Gogh: Les Godillots (1886)

Over time, this term evolved, gaining a pejorative slant and inspiring the French slang "godasse" for shoes.

The Chemin des Fileuses

After a devastating fire in 1886 destroyed the Fontaine Basse spinning mill, the women spinners faced a three-hour walk to work in Fontaine-de-Vaucluse. This path became known as the “Chemin des Fileuses” or the spinner women’s path.

Provence under the clouds © French Moments

The old village of Gordes © French Moments

Gordes Guided Walk eBook
Gordes Guided Walk eBook

The irresistible companion to your exploration of Gordes (including the Fontaine Basse district)!

This comprehensive discovery guide takes you on an immersive 12-stop journey spanning 3.2 km (2 mi) of pure enchantment.

(£5 or about €6/ U$6.50)

Sites in the Fontaine Basse District

The area may not be big, but it's packed with picturesque spots that smell of Provence. Here's a small selection:

The Vieux-Lavoir

This unique fountain-wash house, backing onto the cliff, was sourced directly from four springs.

Vieux-Lavoir, Wash-house in Gordes © French Moments

Its design was aimed at preventing bacterial spread and providing ample washing space. It was last used in 1957, marking the end of an era but still standing as a testament to past village life.

Vieux-Lavoir, Wash-house in Gordes © French Moments
Vieux-Lavoir, Wash-house in Gordes © French Moments
Vieux-Lavoir, Wash-house in Gordes © French Moments
Rue de la Fontaine Basse

Strolling down the Rue de la Fontaine Basse, visitors can admire the historic stone houses and their arches, offering a peek into Gordes' architectural past.

Rue de la Fontaine Basse, Gordes © French Moments
Rue de la Fontaine Basse, Gordes © French Moments

Rue de la Fontaine Basse, Gordes © French Moments

Rue de la Fontaine Basse, Gordes © French Moments
Rue de la Fontaine Basse, Gordes © French Moments
Rue Pavé d'Amour

The Rue Pavé d'Amour, lined with ancient houses, some still in ruins, is a must-walk.

Rue Pavé d'Amour, Gordes © French Moments
Rue de la Fontaine Basse, Gordes © French Moments

The junction of Rue Pavé d'Amour (left) and Rue de la Fontaine Basse (right) © French Moments

It's like stepping into a scene from an old film, showcasing the essence of “la Douce France” with walls carved from the rock itself.

Fontaine-Basse District, Gordes © French Moments
Rue Pavé d'Amour, Gordes © French Moments
Rue Pavé d'Amour, Gordes © French Moments
Rue Pavé d'Amour, Gordes © French Moments
Rue Pavé d'Amour, Gordes © French Moments
Rue Pavé d'Amour, Gordes © French Moments
Rue Pavé d'Amour, Gordes © French Moments

Rue Pavé d'Amour, Gordes © French Moments

If you take your time, you'll find some unusual features here and there.

Rue Pavé d'Amour, Gordes © French Moments
Rue Pavé d'Amour, Gordes © French Moments
Rue Pavé d'Amour, Gordes © French Moments
Rue Pavé d'Amour, Gordes © French Moments
Rue Pavé d'Amour, Gordes © French Moments
Rue Pavé d'Amour, Gordes © French Moments
Rue Pavé d'Amour, Gordes © French Moments
Chapelle d'En-Bas

Further uphill, a large stone archway marks the location of the old Chapelle d'En-Bas. Only its stone altar remains, near where Marc Chagall lived from 1939 to 1941, adding a touch of artistic history to the area.

Chapelle d'En-Bas, Gordes © French Moments

Chapelle d'En-Bas © French Moments

Cactus near Chapelle d'En-Bas, Gordes © French Moments

Cactus near Chapelle d'En-Bas, Gordes © French Moments

Near Chapelle d'En-Bas, Gordes © French Moments

French windows near Chapelle d'En-Bas, Gordes © French Moments

View from Chapelle d'En-Bas, Gordes © French Moments

View from Chapelle d'En-Bas, Gordes © French Moments

Watch my guided walk of Gordes

A 37-minute video that starts at the Parking de la Gendarmerie (Place René Cassin) and passes by the Bel Air Belvedere, the district of Fountaine-Basse before ascending to the top of the village (church and castle).

Find out more about Gordes

How to get to Gordes

The main access road to Gordes is the D2 road from Cavaillon and then the D15 road, which continues north to Murs after passing through the village.

This road gives access to the famous belvedere of Bel-Air, where you can admire a fantastic view of the village.

Gordes is about 38 kilometres (24 miles) east of Avignon and its TGV station, 75 kilometres (47 miles) from Marseille Provence airport and 87 kilometres (54 miles) from Marseille.

The nearest train stations are at L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue and Cavaillon.

Gordes © French Moments

Arriving in Gordes © French Moments

Holiday accommodation in Gordes

Gordes has a high capacity for holiday accommodation. The commune has several hotels, including two five-star hotels, many bed and breakfasts (covering all price ranges), several estate agencies offering seasonal rentals, gîtes and a campsite.

Click here to book your accommodation in the Luberon or browse the map below:

Booking.com

On the blog and other websites

Here are some pages from our blog and other websites to find out more about this Provencal destination.

What to do in the Luberon

Be inspired by a list of things to do in the Luberon:

Pin Gordes on Pinterest

Fontaine Basse District Pinterest copyright French Moments
Gems of Paris by French Moments
About the author

Pierre is a French/Australian who is passionate about France and its culture. He grew up in France and Germany and has also lived in Australia and England. He has a background teaching French, Economics and Current Affairs, and holds a Master of Translating and Interpreting English-French with the degree of Master of International Relations, and a degree of Economics and Management. Pierre is the author of Discovery Courses and books about France.

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