Apt in Provence: Discover the Capital of the Luberon

I’ve driven through Apt many times on my way to other destinations, always passing it by without a second thought.

But during our last trip to Provence, I decided it was finally time to stop and explore this town that I had overlooked for so long. 

We parked our rental car along the quays and set off to discover the old centre of Apt.

Apt often suffers from a lack of love from visitors, both French and international, who tend to favour the picturesque villages that dot the Luberon hills around it. 

At best, people might come to Apt for the famous Saturday morning market, but rarely do they plan a full day here.

I have to admit, the town centre could use some sprucing up, but despite its rough edges, Apt deserves a visit—especially for its remarkable cathedral.

That’s the purpose of this article: to highlight the hidden treasures of Apt and, hopefully, convince you to spend some time in this charming, yet often overlooked, little capital of the Luberon.

Watch this short video on the Luberon!

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Apt: A Bit of History

Let’s step back in time as we recall the storied past of Apt.

Discovering Apt's Roman Roots

Apt, nestled in the heart of Provence, boasts a rich history that dates back to Roman times.

Founded in 45 BC by Julius Caesar’s order, the city was originally named Colonia Apta Iulia Vulgentis.

It quickly became the capital of the Vulgientes tribe and a key stop along the famous Via Domitia, the ancient Roman road connecting Rome to Spain.

The city's strategic location made it an important hub in the Roman Empire.

To protect it, several fortified oppida were built on the surrounding hills, although the Romans dismantled some, like the one on Perréal hill.

A Prosperous Roman Town

Apt thrived during this time, especially in the 2nd century when it peaked its prosperity.

Emperor Hadrian himself visited Apt in the early 2nd century.

He was so fond of the place that he even penned a verse for his beloved horse, Borysthène, and left it as an inscription in the city. 

By then, Apt was a bustling urban centre with a forum, a triumphal arch, a capitol, temples, baths, and a theatre that rivalled the famous one in Orange.

With a population of around 10,000, Apt was one of the 24 cities of the Roman province of Gallia Narbonensis.

Seat of a Bishopric

The city’s importance was further highlighted in the early 4th century when its bishopric was represented at the first Western Council in Arles, making Apt one of the key dioceses in Provence.

Apt's Roman heritage is still palpable today, with traces of its ancient grandeur lying just beneath the surface of this charming Provençal town.

Apt in the Middle Ages

Apt in the Middle Ages was a bustling and fortified town, tightly enclosed within its medieval walls.

These defences were necessary, as the town was not immune to the threats of the time.

In 895, for instance, Apt was pillaged by Saracen invaders despite its fortifications.

A Coveted Land

During the 10th to 12th centuries, Apt was governed by a co-lordship shared between the bishops and the Agoult-Simiane family. 

This arrangement lasted until the mid-13th century, when a significant shift occurred.

In 1258, under pressure from Charles I of Anjou, the city’s consular government was abolished. 

The ancient seal of Apt was replaced with one bearing the symbols of Anjou and Aragon, marking a new chapter in the city's administration.

The town was then governed by its prince-bishop, Pierre Bayle, who controlled the Bouquerie quarter, and a bailiff named Pierre, who oversaw the Saint-Pierre quarter.

This bailiff was responsible for a vast region stretching from the Durance River to the County of Sault.

The Influential Bishops of Apt

The bishops of Apt also played roles on the international stage.

For instance, in 1286, when Charles II of Anjou was held captive by the King of Aragon, the bishop of Apt was involved in the negotiations for his release.

Although the Pope ultimately rejected the treaty they brokered, this event highlights the city's importance in the medieval political landscape.

Apt's local governance continued to evolve, with significant figures like Guiran de Simiane, who became the lord of Apt and sided with the Angevin Louis I during the War of the Union of Aix in 1382.

This allegiance made Apt one of the few towns to support Louis I early on, alongside cities like Marseille and Arles.

The 1362 Register: Candied Fruits and Market

An important milestone in Apt's medieval history was the establishment of its first municipal deliberation register on 28 March 1362.

This register provides insights into the town’s life, such as the offering of Apt's famous candied fruits to Pope Urban V in 1365.

Apt's market, which had already gained regional fame, was officially established by King René in 1470, who granted the town the right to hold a weekly market on Tuesdays.

This was later changed to Saturday mornings in 1523 by René of Savoy, known as the Grand Bastard.

The Plague in Apt

The Middle Ages were also a time of hardship for Apt, as the town, like much of Provence, was ravaged by recurrent plague epidemics, with the first major outbreak occurring in 1348.

Despite these challenges, Apt's medieval legacy is still evident today, particularly in its historic market, which continues to thrive as it has for centuries.

Apt in the Modern Era

As the Middle Ages gave way to the modern era, Apt found itself at the heart of significant and often turbulent events.

The Waldensians in the Luberon

The year 1540 marked the beginning of a dark chapter with the persecution of the Waldensians (Vaudois), a Protestant sect that had settled in the Luberon region. 

These families, originally from Northern Italy, had fled persecution and found refuge in places like Roquefure, near Apt.

However, the Catholic Church’s crackdown led to the brutal execution of Collin Pellenc, a local winemaker, who was burned at the stake.

This act sparked a widespread and bloody campaign against the Waldensians, culminating in the massacre of Mérindol in 1545, where 24 villages were destroyed, and 3,000 people lost their lives.

Despite these hardships, Apt remained a steadfastly Catholic town, even surrounded by Protestant strongholds like Ménerbes and Buoux. 

The religious tensions of the time made life in Apt precarious, with the town enduring several sieges by Reformed forces.

Apt in the 17th Century and Anne of Austria's Visit

The 17th century brought a moment of peace and devotion when Louis XIII and Anne of Austria, desperate for an heir, turned to the town’s patron saint, Saint Anne, for help.

Their prayers were answered with the birth of the future Louis XIV.

In gratitude, Anne of Austria visited Apt in 1660, an event that greatly boosted the veneration of Saint Anne and left a lasting spiritual legacy in the town.

Apt in the 18th Century and the French Revolution

During the 18th century, Apt experienced a cultural and intellectual revival thanks to a handful of local scholars.

This period of enlightenment coincided with the stirring of revolutionary ideas.

By 1789, Apt actively participated in the discussions that would lead to the sweeping reforms of the French Revolution.

In 1790, Apt was elevated to the status of district capital, first in the Bouches-du-Rhône and later in the newly formed département of Vaucluse in 1793.

Pottery and Faience of Apt

One of the town’s more artistic contributions during this period was the development of its famed pottery.

In 1714, under the guidance of César Moulin, the first faience workshop was established, producing exquisite ceramics that quickly became the talk of Versailles.

Later, his sons, François and Jacques, later invented the unique “Aptian marbling” technique, giving their pottery a distinctive and highly sought-after look.

From religious turmoil to artistic achievements, the modern era was a time of profound transformation for Apt, shaping the town into the vibrant community it is today.

Apt in the 19th and 20th centuries

The 19th century was a time of significant upheaval for Apt.

This town played a central role in the regional insurrection against the coup d'État of Louis-Napoléon Bonaparte in December 1851. 

On December 7th, the tension in Apt boiled over when local republicans, outraged by the arrival of armed forces from Saint-Saturnin, took matters into their own hands. 

They gathered in the town’s squares, took control of the town hall and the sub-prefecture, and formed a revolutionary committee.

This group, led by figures like Elzéar Pin and Méritan (known as Barbès), attempted to rally support for a march towards L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue and Avignon. 

Unfortunately, the insurrection was short-lived, and by December 10th, the Bonapartist repression had begun, resulting in the arrest of over 340 republicans in the region.

A Period of Modernisation

Despite the political turmoil, the 19th century also brought growth and modernisation to Apt.

The arrival of the railway and the development of various industries, including ochre production, faience, hat making, wax production, candied fruits, iron, and sulphur, cemented Apt’s position as an important industrial hub in the region. 

However, by the 20th century, many of these traditional industries had disappeared, marking the end of an era for the town.

WW2 in Apt

The 20th century saw Apt caught up in the turbulence of World War II.

On August 22, 1944, the town was liberated by the 36th Infantry Division of the U.S. Army.

Meanwhile, a significant column of the German Wehrmacht, moving along the "Route des Alpes," was headed towards Digne.

Upon learning of resistance barricades at the entrance to Apt, the German forces diverted towards Sault, where they encountered a deadly ambush set by the local resistance group known as "Maquis Ventoux." 

This ambush, conducted by officers and non-commissioned officers of the French Air Force, resulted in 110 German casualties.

The remaining German forces, disoriented and demoralised, abandoned their wounded and continued their retreat, eventually surrendering on August 25th.

These events highlight Apt’s resilience and strategic importance during some of the most challenging times in French history.

From political resistance in the 19th century to its role in the liberation of France during World War II, Apt has consistently demonstrated a spirit of courage and renewal that continues to define the town today.

The Discovery Guide of Apt

Here's some tourist information to help you explore the Provencal town.

Understanding the Town

Apt is a picturesque town located in the heart of the Calavon Valley, nestled between the Luberon Massif to the south and the Vaucluse Mountains to the north.

The market town is located 30 km east of Cavaillon and 50 km of Avignon.

With a population of around 10,500, the town is traversed by the Calavon River, which once encircled its historic centre, giving the area a unique island-like setting.

Apt sits along the former National Route N100, now the RD 900, which connects Cavaillon to Manosque, reflecting its importance as a key crossroads in the region.

The town’s origins are deeply rooted in history, as it was built along the ancient Via Domitia, an essential Roman road.

Today, Apt’s centre is clustered around the magnificent Sainte-Anne Cathedral, a focal point that has watched over the town for centuries.

Apt’s geographical position not only offers stunning natural scenery but also underscores its historical significance as a hub of transportation and culture in Provence.

The Town Walk of Apt

When I visited Apt, I parked my car along the banks of the Calavon River.

Start your visit at Place de la Bouquerie, one of the main entrances to Apt's old town.

Place de la Bouquerie

Here, you'll find a massive column topped with a warrior-like Marianne, said to be modelled after the sculptor Auguste Mourre's wife.

From here, take Rue du Docteur Gros to reach Place Gabriel Péri.

Place Gabriel Péri

This square is home to the Town Hall and the Sub-Prefecture, the latter being the former palace of the bishops of Apt.

The bishops rebuilt it in a neoclassical style between 1754 and 1789, just in time before the French Revolution!

Rue des Marchands

From Place Gabriel Péri, you'll enter a maze of narrow streets and small squares.

The easiest way to explore is by following Rue des Marchands.

This street, which later becomes Rue Saint-Pierre, runs through the heart of old Apt from west to east, eventually leading to Cours Lauze de Perret after passing through the medieval Porte de Saignon.

Rue des Marchands follows the path of the ancient Roman Decumanus Maximus and was once known as Carriera Recta, or "the straight street."

In the old town, be sure to check out these highlights:

Tour de l'Horloge

This 16th-century clock tower, about 20 metres tall, is topped with a wrought-iron dome.

Interestingly, it also served as a gate between two parts of the town:

• the Saint-Pierre quarter to the east, under the jurisdiction of the counts, 
• and the Bouquerie quarter to the west, under the bishops’ control.

Apt Cathedral

Nestled in the heart of Apt, next to the Clock Tower, the Basilica Cathedral of Sainte-Anne stands as the town's most distinguished landmark.

This historic cathedral, with origins dating back to the 5th century, has seen centuries of change and resilience.

The church’s story began when the relics of Saint Anne, believed to have been brought from Palestine by Saint Cassien, were enshrined in its crypt.

Despite multiple destructions by invaders over the centuries, the people of Apt continually rebuilt their sacred site, each time adding to its grandeur.

The cathedral boasts a fascinating blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Neoclassical architecture, reflecting its long history.

Its expansive western façade, one of the widest in southern France, showcases the town's devotion to Saint Anne.

Visitors can marvel at the Romanesque bell tower, the copper-clad dome, and, inside, the grand Sainte-Anne Chapel, which all together create an atmosphere of spiritual reverence and historical depth. 

This cathedral is not only a place of worship but also a symbol of the enduring faith and tenacity of the people of Apt.

Discover the Apt Cathedral, the ancient relics and the story of Queen Anne of Austria's miracle on the blog!

Place Carnot

From Place Carnot, you get a great view of the cathedral, especially the dome of the Sainte-Anne Chapel.

This square was once the site of the Autric de Vintimille mansion, where Anne of Austria stayed during her pilgrimage to the cathedral.

Sadly, the mansion, considered Apt’s most beautiful townhouse, was demolished around 1870.

This square was also the site of the ancient Roman amphitheatre.

Place du Septier

This charming little square takes its name (septier) from a grain measure, as the lord’s warehouses were located here. 

The square is lined with grand townhouses, including the Colin d’Albertas Consular Palace, built in the mid-17th century.

It’s a gem of Provençal baroque architecture.

Place Jean Jaurès

This square sits on the site of the ancient Gallo-Roman forum and later the cathedral’s chapter house.

You can still see the remains of Gallo-Roman structures that were uncovered during construction work.

Place du Postel

In medieval times, this was known as the Place du Gibet (Gallows Square).

From the 17th to the 19th century, it housed the Town Hall and, later, a candied fruit workshop that closed in the late 20th century. 

Today, the building is home to the Musée de l'Aventure Industrielle, which focuses on Apt’s famous industries: ochre, ceramics, and candied fruits.

Chapelle des Récollets

Once a Franciscan convent, this early 17th-century chapel now serves as an exhibition hall.

Take a moment to admire the twin portals with broken pediments and decorative flaming pots.

Porte de Saignon

At the end of Rue Saint-Pierre, you'll find the Porte de Saignon, which guarded the eastern entrance to the town along the road to the Alps.

This gate, one of six in Apt, has dramatically changed since it was built in the 13th century.

Apt was a fortified town, protected by its walls and the two branches of the Calavon River.

The town had 27 towers, each housing eight crossbowmen—216 defenders.

The nearby Tour de l'Hôpital (Hospital Tower) is the only one of these towers that still stands today.

The Cours and the Public Garden

The Cours Lauze-de-Perret, East of old Apt, was created in 1535 along the town walls. 

This area was once a playground for pétanque players and boule enthusiasts.

Today, the northern part has been turned into a parking area, while the southern part features a monumental fountain called the Fontaine de l'Éléphant.

Across the Cours is the Jardin Public (Public Garden), established in the early 19th century and featuring rare species of trees from the Château des Tourettes park, planted on the orders of Apt’s last bishop, Laurent Éon de Cély.

19th-Century and Belle Époque Villas

Beyond the old town, you'll find many eclectic 19th-century villas.

The finest examples are along the quays on the right bank of the Calavon River, at the foot of the hill.

Chapelle Saint-Michel

The Chapelle Saint-Michel offers a lovely view over Apt's rooftops.

This chapel dates back to the 12th century but was altered several times in the 13th and 14th centuries.

The Tourist Office and the Old Railway Station

Since 2018, the tourist board for the Apt region has been located in Apt’s old 19th-century railway station. 

To find it, you’ll need to walk about 1 km from the old town along the road to Cavaillon.

It’s not the most convenient location if you’re planning to explore the historic centre of Apt and getting all the information you need prior to your visit.

I found myself parking twice—once at the tourist office and then again closer to the town.

However, the old station has been beautifully restored, with a fresh coat of lime plaster from the Société des Ocres de France, bringing back its original charm.

For more details, visit the official website of the Pays d’Apt-Luberon Tourist Board.

Find out more

Here are some pages from our blog and other websites to find out more about this Provencal destination.

• Discover the hilltop villages of the Luberon
• Explore the neighbouring villages of Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt and Saignon
• Find out more about Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur
• The official tourist office of the area

Where to stay near Apt

Apt and surroundings have a high capacity for holiday accommodation. The commune and its surroundings has hotels, bed and breakfasts (covering all price ranges), estate agencies offering seasonal rentals and gîtes.

Click here to book your accommodation in Apt or browse the map below:

What to do in the Luberon

Be inspired by a list of things to do in the Luberon:

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