Apt Cathedral: Where Miracles, Monarchs, and Mystery Meet

It’s rare to find a cathedral dedicated to St. Anne, the mother of Mary, which makes the Apt Cathedral, known as Cathédrale Sainte-Anne, truly unique.

Most cathedrals are named after Mary herself, so this one stands out for its special dedication.

During our last visit to Provence, I made it a point to finally explore this remarkable cathedral, which has been a defining feature of Apt’s landscape for centuries.

The Apt Cathedral is steeped in history and rich with stories, some of which border on legend.

From the veneration of the famous relics of St. Anne to the historic visit by the Queen of France, Anne of Austria, there’s so much to discover within its ancient walls.

As a lover of history, I knew this was a place that deserved attention on the blog.

The cathedral’s unique past, combined with its striking presence in the town, makes it a site worth exploring in depth.

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Apt Cathedral: A Bit of History

Let’s step back in time as we recall the storied past of the Apt Cathedral.

The Foundations of the Cathedral

The history and architecture of this cathedral span from the 5th century to the present day.

The story is said to have begun in the 5th century when Saint Cassien brought the relics of Saint Anne, the mother of the Virgin Mary, from Palestine.

These sacred relics were placed in the lower crypt of the cathedral, which Saint Auspicius founded.

However, historians believe that the relics of Saint Anne were more likely brought to Apt by returning Crusaders.

We will talk more in depth about the relics later on.

The original church housed a martyrium for the early Christians of Apt.

The Lombards devastated it around 575, leaving only the apse and ambulatory, which are supported by a Roman wall.

Despite repeated destruction—by Arabs in 731, 739, 896, and 975—the people of Apt never lost hope.

The Cathedral in the Middle-Ages

A new church was constructed in 1056.

The presence of Saint Anne's relics contributed to the cathedral's growing significance.

The 11th-century structure was rebuilt in the 12th century and expanded in the 14th century with the addition of the Sainte-Anne Chapel.

The Cathedral from the 17th to the 19th C

In the 17th century, the growing number of pilgrims necessitated further expansion, including the dome’s construction.

The 18th century saw the nave raised, the choir transformed in a neo-Gothic style, and a new porch replacing the medieval one.

The 19th century added side chapels, many of which have since been removed, along with numerous stained-glass windows, statues, and painted decorations.

Apt and its cathedral remained the seat of a bishopric until the French Revolution. 

Under the Concordat of 1801, the diocese was abolished and divided between the dioceses of Avignon and Digne.

Anne of Austria's Royal Visit to Apt

The 17th century brought a moment of peace and devotion when Louis XIII and Anne of Austria, desperate for an heir, turned to the town’s patron saint, Saint Anne, for help.

Before going further, let's keep in mind that Apt Cathedral is one of the oldest churches in the West to honour the cult of Saint Anne, the grandmother of Christ. 

By the 12th century, her feast day was celebrated on 26 July with a special office.

Her veneration became firmly established in the 14th century.

The Relics of St. Anne

In fact ,tradition says the relics were brought from the East by Anne's nieces—Marie Salomé and Marie Cléophas—along with Mary Magdalene, Lazarus, Martha, Sidoine, Maximin, and others in the 1st century. 

Another tradition suggests that Crusader knights brought them back from the East in the late 11th century.

The relics found in Brittany at Sainte-Anne-d'Auray and Sainte-Anne-la-Palud, as well as in Paris, Italy, and Quebec, all originally came from Apt.

Why Anne of Austria needed a Miracle?

Anne of Austria, a Spanish princess and Archduchess of the Austrian Habsburg line, was only 14 years old when she married Louis XIII in 1615.

The marriage aimed to strengthen the newly formed alliances between France and Spain.

However, their union was full of difficulties.

Anne suffered several heartbreaking stillbirths, and without an heir, the relationship between her and Louis grew increasingly tense.

By late 1623, Anne was deeply concerned and decided to take action.

She gained permission from both Parliament and the King to send a letter to the bishop of Apt. 

In the letter, she requested a “parcel of relics” that she believed could help her conceive a healthy son.

The request was quickly granted.

The Bishop of Apt opened the crypt and selected a finger-bone, which was then sent to the Queen in the hope that Sainte Anne would answer her prayers.

But the answer didn’t come right away.

Anne endured two more stillbirths before, finally, in 1638, at the age of 37, she gave birth to the future King Louis XIV on the 5th of September at Saint-Germain-en-Laye.

This didn’t fully heal the rift between her and Louis, but three years later, she gave birth to another son, Philippe.

The Visit of Anne of Austria to Apt

When Louis XIII died in 1643, Anne was named Regent.

She governed on behalf of her young son until he was old enough to take the throne at 13.

Through all these challenges, Anne never forgot the help she received from Apt and the relic of Sainte Anne during her darkest times.

In 1660, as her eldest son, King Louis XIV, prepared for his marriage, Anne began her own pilgrimage.

She travelled to Apt on the 27th of March 1660 to give thanks for the church’s support.

She knew the relic had played a crucial role in her ability to bear children and secure the future of the French crown.

Needless to day the royal visit was an event that greatly boosted the veneration of Saint Anne and left a lasting spiritual legacy in the town.

Visiting Apt Cathedral

Here's some tourist information to help you explore the cathedral of Apt

The Romanesque Bell Tower

To better appreciate the romantic tower, it's best to keep your distance. The view from the chapel of Saint-Michel will give you a better idea.

The bell tower, located at the crossing of the transept, is a square structure with a single tier topped by a low pyramid-shaped roof.

Four pairs of small columns open on each side, and eight columns with capitals support the cornice encircling the spire.

The tower houses five bells used for services.

These bells are not electrified and run manually with ropes, a rare feature for a cathedral.

The Dome

The dome, covered with copper plates, crowns the royal chapel.

The gilded bronze statue atop the dome was created by the Apt-born sculptor Joseph-Elzéar Sollier and cast in Paris in 1877.

The outstretched hand of the statue of Saint Anne seems to protect the city.

The Enfeus

The southern exterior wall on the Rue des Marchards, as shown by an archway now hidden, once connected the cloister to the crypts. 

Ancient windows, located east and west of the Clock Tower porch, used to light up this façade.

Just above the raised ground, three enfeus—old tombs of notable figures—dating from the 13th, 15th, and 16th centuries, still mark the site of the old cemetery next to the Saint-Sauveur Oratory.

Here’s a photo showing the details of the enfeus' sculptures.

The West Front

The western façade, originally Romanesque, has been significantly widened over the centuries and now stretches 42 metres across, making it one of the widest cathedral façades in southern France (Bourges: 45 metres).

The cathedral itself is 50 metres long.

On the south side, the Romanesque façade, corresponding to the central and southern naves, measures 20 metres.

The great portal is framed by two smooth columns topped with composite capitals, featuring acanthus leaves and scrolls.

Above the entrance, there is a two-level entablature, with the architrave topped by a dentil cornice.

On either side, two decorative urns flank a niche with a triangular pediment.

Let's visit the interior of the cathedral.

The Floor Map of Apt Cathedral

At the start of construction, there were only two Romanesque naves, each with three bays, oriented east-west as tradition dictates.

They were separated by large round arches resting on sturdy pillars.

In the 14th century, a third nave, Gothic in style and with ribbed vaulting, was added to the north of the original building.

To make this possible, significant changes had to be made to the central nave, which was previously the northern nave.

The Nave

The central nave, which was completely redesigned in the 16th and 18th centuries, has lost much of its original Romanesque design.

The only remaining feature is the crossing above the sixth bay, where the Romanesque bell tower stands.

The nave was raised by two metres, and a ribbed vault replaced the original barrel vault, allowing for larger windows to be opened.

The Paintings and Other Decorations

In the nave, six other paintings illustrating the life of Christ were created by the Delpech brothers, Christophe and Pierre, who were students of Parrocel.

Near the first pillar of the southern aisle, you can see The Holy Family by Nicolas Mignard.

Most of the cathedral's decorations date back to the 18th century, including:

• The organ case and its woodwork.
• The main marble altar.
• The gilded wooden statues of Saint Roch and Saint Jerome (late 17th century).

Among the other artistic treasures to admire on the pillars of the central nave is a 17th-century painting by Lelong.

It depicts the Virgin Mary, carried by angels, praying at the tomb of her mother, Saint Anne. 

The Virgin is surrounded by various saints connected to the region.

The South Aisle

The south aisle was added to the central nave in the 11th century and has fully retained its Romanesque structure.

It’s covered by a round-arched barrel vault supported by transverse arches.

This vault rests on a carved frieze of plant motifs.

The southern arm of the transept, known as Corpus Domini, leads to a very simple apse.

The apse, separated from the nave by a transverse barrel vault with the same frieze, had its central window blocked in the 18th century when buildings were constructed against it.

In the apse, you’ll find a white marble altar from the Pyrenees, also dating back to the 12th century.

Originally, this altar served the central nave and its niches were once adorned with bronze statuettes, which are now lost.

In the 19th century, three side chapels were added to this aisle.

The ones dedicated to Mary and Joseph were removed during the 1962 restoration, leaving only the Holy Spirit Chapel, which houses the baptismal font.

This chapel is decorated with a painting by Parrocel, titled The Descent of the Holy Spirit.

The North Aisle

The north aisle was added in the 14th century.

It features Gothic architecture with ribbed vaults.

The Chapels of the North Aisle

The north aisle has three chapels: the Saint John the Baptist Chapel, the Chapel of the Souls in Purgatory (also known as the Virgin’s Chapel), and the Rosary Chapel.

The Saint John the Baptist Chapel (Chapelle Saint-Jean-Baptiste) contains a paleo-Christian altar-sarcophagus from the late 4th century, originally from Arles. It was consecrated in the cathedral in 1956.

In the Virgin’s Chapel (Chapelle de la Vierge), there are two statues of the Virgin and Child—one in gilded wood and the other in Carrara marble. On the right, there’s also an 18th-century statue of Saint Joseph and the Child, made of polychrome and gilded wood.

The Rosary Chapel (Chapelle du Rosaire) features a golden altarpiece known as the “Saint Anne” altarpiece, with painted wooden medallions from the early 17th century, attributed to L’Aragon.

The Choir and Apse

The central apse was replaced at the same time as the nave, making way for a vast neo-Gothic choir.

The boundary between the nave and the choir is marked by a massive painting of the Transfiguration of Christ and His Glory.

This oil painting dates back to the first half of the 18th century.

The choir now houses the chapter stalls, crafted between 1708 and 1710 by Antoine Nallein, a cabinetmaker from Manosque.

The series of nine paintings displayed here, depicting the life of the Virgin Mary, dates back to the mid-18th century and is the work of Christophe Delpech and A. Marron, both from Apt.

At the back of the choir is the "Vitrail d'Apt," a beautiful stained glass window, one of the few surviving intact from the 14th century.

Created by master glassmaker Audibert Chacharelli, it was commissioned by Pope Urban V and consecrated during his visit to Apt on 22 October 1365.

The window depicts Saint Anne, the Virgin Mary, and the Child Jesus.

The Organ

The organ was built in 1705 by the organ maker Charles Boisselin, replacing an earlier instrument that was located near the entrance.

The organ case has remained unchanged over the years, despite various maintenance works, modifications, and restorations of the instrument itself—the most recent being in 2013.

The organ loft and case have been listed as Historical Monuments since 1977.

The Chapel of St. Anne

Tucked away to the left as you enter the cathedral, the Sainte-Anne Chapel stands as the largest of the side chapels, stretching 16 metres along an axis perpendicular to the central nave.

However, financial woes soon stalled the project, and it wasn’t until 1660 that the chapel’s fate took an unexpected turn.

That year, Queen Mother Anne of Austria visited Apt on 27 March, driven by a deep gratitude to Saint Anne for blessing her with the gift of motherhood.

Inspired by her pilgrimage, she donated gold reliquaries to the bishop and urged the continuation of the chapel’s construction.

Yet, intrigue lingers in the tale, as the promised royal funds mysteriously vanished, likely diverted by a high-ranking court official.

Undeterred, the bishop covered the financial shortfall himself, ensuring the chapel's completion.

Finally, on 26 July 1664, the chapel was consecrated, standing as a testament to faith, perseverance, and a hint of royal mystery.

The Treasure of the Cathedral of Apt

The reliquary niche in the Saint Anne Chapel is closed off by a heavy grille and painted shutters from the early 17th century. 

These shutters depict scenes from the life of Saint Anne and the parish’s patron saints.

Inside the niche, you’ll find busts and reliquary chests of Saint Anne, Saint Auspice, and Saint Castor (19th-century replicas), along with several other reliquaries.

The treasure of the Cathedral of Apt is a remarkable collection of religious artefacts.

The most notable piece is the reliquary of Sainte Anne, accompanied by the cradle of Sainte Anne, which dates back to the 14th century.

The treasure also includes an ivory casket, two marriage caskets, and various liturgical manuscripts.

The Veil of St. Anne

One of the most fascinating items in the collection is the “Veil of Saint Anne,” also known as the Arab Standard. 

This unique piece is believed to be the cloak of an 11th-century Egyptian caliph, brought back to Provence after the First Crusade and placed in the cathedral’s treasury.

Whether it was a diplomatic gift or a war trophy, it was likely brought back by a local lord or possibly by Isoard, the bishop of Apt at the time.

The Catholic Church venerates this cloak as a relic of contact, as it may have once wrapped other sacred relics, including possibly one of Saint Anne herself.

The veil, made of linen and measuring 310 by 152 centimetres, is composed of three bands of tapestry.

An Arab Cloak

It is actually an abâ, a cloak embroidered on the front with two bands of tapestry and on the back with a wide band adorned with three medallions.

These bands and medallions are intricately embroidered with silk and gold, featuring figurative designs.

An inscription in Kufic script, arranged in a circle within one of the medallions, celebrates the glory of its commissioner, Al-Musta'li.

According to tradition, Charlemagne himself contributed to and witnessed the rediscovery of the relics of Saint Anne.

The Crypts

The Cathedral of Sainte-Anne houses two crypts, each with a rich historical significance.

These crypts, located beneath the choir of the main nave, primarily belong to the Romanesque period of the 12th century.

However, they also preserve elements from the 11th-century construction.

The Lower Crypt

The lower crypt is believed to be part of the earliest Christian sanctuary in the ancient city.

It consists of a narrow, 7.10-metre-long corridor that leads to the ancient place of worship.

At the centre of this crypt, there is a Latin inscription honouring C. Allius Celer, who was a flamen (priest) of Apta Julia.

The vault of this crypt features an ombilicus, a small opening that allowed worshippers in the upper crypt to participate in the rituals below.

During the construction of the first cathedral within the city walls, niches were carved into the walls of this crypt to serve as reliquaries; one of these niches still has its original grill.

According to tradition, this is where the relics of Saint Auspice and Saint Anne were discovered.

The ceiling is decorated with slabs recovered from the Carolingian church, featuring interlaced patterns, flowers, and grapes, some of which bear ancient graffiti.

Although the lower crypt has undergone many alterations, its features suggest it is more likely from the Merovingian period than the Gallo-Roman era.

The Upper Crypt

The upper crypt is situated at the level of the ancient city’s ground and beneath the transept of the 11th-century church, to which it is contemporary.

The original side entrances were replaced by a central staircase in 1861.

From here, a barrel-vaulted ambulatory, supported by double arches resting on plain imposts, encircles the centre of the crypt.

This space includes a small choir covered by a semi-dome, separated from the ambulatory by a wall pierced with five arches.

At the centre stands a monolithic tabular altar, dating back to the 8th century, which originally came from the old Saint-Pierre Cathedral and rests on an ancient base.

Along the outer perimeter, within the arches, are 13th-century sarcophagi containing the bones of those who were buried beneath the cathedral’s floor.

On the pillars near the choir, a mutilated inscription from the 1861 “restoration” recalls the consecration of the crypt.

Find out more

Here are some pages from our blog and other websites to find out more about this Provencal destination.

• Discover the market town of Apt in Provence
• Explore the neighbouring villages of Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt and Saignon
• Find out more about Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur
• The official tourist office of the area
• Want to explore another cathedral in Provence? Check out our article about the cathedral of Aix-en-Provence.

Where to stay near Apt

Apt and surroundings have a high capacity for holiday accommodation. The commune and its surroundings has hotels, bed and breakfasts (covering all price ranges), estate agencies offering seasonal rentals and gîtes.

Click here to book your accommodation in Apt or browse the map below:

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