Aix-les-Bains: Belle Époque Spa Town in Savoie by Lake Bourget

Aix-les-Bains is one of the most elegant spa towns in the French Alps, beautifully set between Lake Bourget and the surrounding mountains of Savoie.

At first glance, it is easy to think of Aix simply as a pleasant lakeside resort: boats, promenades, beaches, cafés and views across the water.

But the town has far more depth than that. Its identity has been shaped by Roman hot springs, Savoyard history, Belle Époque architecture, aristocratic visitors, thermal cures and the spectacular setting of Lake Bourget (aka Lac du Bourget).

On my last visit to Aix-les-Bains, I was especially struck by the town’s elegant façades, old palaces and slightly Italian atmosphere.

The balconies, pastel colours, gardens and decorative details all seem to tell a story of a place that once welcomed queens, aristocrats, writers and wealthy visitors who came here to take the waters and enjoy life at a more civilised pace.

Aix may not have the immediate postcard fame of Annecy or the dramatic mountain setting of Chamonix, but it has something different: refinement, history and a very particular lakeside charm.

Where Is Aix-les-Bains?

Aix-les-Bains is located in the French département of Savoie, in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region.

The town lies between Annecy and Chambéry, on the eastern side of Lake Bourget (in French, Lac du Bourget), the largest natural lake of glacial origin entirely within France.

Its position is one of its great strengths. To the west lies Lake Bourget, with the Dent du Chat and the Mont du Chat rising beyond the water.

To the east, the land climbs towards the Bauges massif and the Revard, one of the great panoramic balconies above the lake.

This setting explains much of the atmosphere of Aix. It is not only a spa town, not only a lakeside town, and not only a gateway to the mountains. It is all three at once.

The town sits at a crossroads between the Alpine world, the Savoyard foreland, the shores of Lake Bourget and the main routes linking Chambéry, Annecy, Geneva and the Rhône valley.

Geography of Aix-les-Bains: Between Lake Bourget and the Bauges

Aix-les-Bains enjoys a remarkable natural setting. The town is bordered by Lake Bourget, while the hills and mountains around it create a sheltered and scenic environment.

This geography gives Aix a distinctive character. You can start the morning in the old thermal district, walk through streets lined with Belle Époque buildings, reach the lakefront for a stroll by the water, and then look up towards the wooded slopes of the Revard.

The town also benefits from a mild lakeside atmosphere. In places, you may notice vegetation that feels almost Mediterranean: palm trees near the casino, flowering gardens, and elegant villas set in greenery. This softness contrasts beautifully with the surrounding Alpine and Pre-Alpine landscapes.

That contrast is one of the pleasures of Aix. You are in Savoie, close to the mountains, yet the town has a relaxed lakeside elegance that sometimes feels closer to the Italian lakes than to a typical Alpine town.

And historically, that impression is not completely fanciful. Before the annexation of Savoy to France in 1860, Aix-les-Bains belonged to the Kingdom of Sardinia, ruled by the House of Savoy.

This Savoyard and Italian-facing past still seems to linger in some of the architecture and atmosphere.

A Brief History of Aix-les-Bains

The history of Aix-les-Bains begins with water.

The town’s origins are closely linked to its hot springs. Under the Romans, the settlement was known as Aquae, a name that points directly to its thermal identity.

The city of Aix highlights two major periods in the town’s heritage: the Gallo-Roman era, with the thermal remains, the Temple of Diana and the Arch of Campanus; and the 19th and early 20th centuries, when Aix became a prestigious resort frequented by celebrities of the age.

The Roman presence is still visible today in the heart of the old thermal district.

Later, in the Middle Ages and under the House of Savoy, Aix remained a small town, but its thermal waters continued to shape its destiny.

A major turning point came in 1860, when Savoy was annexed to France following the Treaty of Turin and the local plebiscite. Aix, like the rest of Savoie, then became French, bringing to an end centuries of rule by the House of Savoy in the region.

This change did not erase the town’s Savoyard identity, but it placed Aix within a new national framework just as its reputation as a fashionable spa resort was about to grow even further.

Visitors came not only for health reasons, but also for society, entertainment, architecture, music, gambling, promenades and the art of being seen.

The city itself still uses the famous phrase once associated with Aix-les-Bains: “the resort of queens and the queen of resorts.” It may sound slightly ambitious, but when you walk past the old palaces, the casino and the thermal quarter, you understand the idea.

Aix-les-Bains and Its Thermal Heritage

Thermalism is the key to understanding Aix-les-Bains.

The hot springs were known in Roman times, and the town developed for centuries around their supposed healing properties.

A modern article on the old thermal district notes that Aix has always grown around its thermal baths, from its Roman ancestor Aquae to the contemporary town, with hot springs particularly associated with treatments for rheumatism and respiratory conditions.

The 19th century was the golden age of thermal Aix. Under the influence of Napoleon III and the wider fashion for spa resorts, Aix-les-Bains became a major destination for visitors seeking treatment, leisure and social life.

This brought hotels, palaces, gardens, promenades and elegant façades to the town centre.

Today, the old thermal district remains one of the most important areas of Aix-les-Bains. Around the former national thermal baths, you find Roman remains, Belle Époque buildings, the Parc Floral des Thermes, the medieval Town Hall, the Temple of Diana, the Arch of Campanus and the Casino Grand Cercle.

The district is also changing. The town has launched a major redevelopment of the old thermal baths quarter, with the intention of preserving its historical heritage while giving new life to one of the most emblematic parts of Aix.

The entire former national thermal baths complex is protected as a historic monument, which makes the transformation particularly sensitive.

What to See in Aix-les-Bains

The historic centre of Aix-les-Bains is compact enough to explore on foot, but rich enough to deserve more than a quick look. You can see many of the main sights in half a day, although a full day gives you a much better feel for the town.

A good starting point is Rue de Genève, the main shopping street, before heading towards Place Carnot, the old thermal quarter, the Roman remains and the casino.

1. Rue de Genève and the Historic Centre of Aix-les-Bains

Rue de Genève is the main shopping street of Aix. It is not the most monumental part of town, but it is a good way to enter the atmosphere of the historic centre.

Look up as you walk. You will notice elegant balconies, colourful façades, shopfronts, cafés and the kind of urban details that give Aix-les-Bains its gentle charm.

This street also reminds us that Aix was never only a spa resort for visitors. It has always been a lived-in town, with shops, restaurants, daily life and a commercial role in this part of Savoie.

2. Place Carnot and the Old Route Through Town

Place Carnot stands on the old route that once linked Geneva and Chambéry. In the Middle Ages, this area lay between the old entrance gates of the town.

Today, it is a pleasant pedestrian square bordered by buildings that hint at the town’s layered history. It makes a natural transition between the shopping streets and the old thermal district.

From here, you can continue towards Rue des Bains and Place des Thermes, where the spa-town character of Aix becomes much more visible.

3. Place des Thermes and the Former Grand Hotels

Place des Thermes is one of the key places for understanding Aix-les-Bains as a spa town.

The square is closely linked to the old thermal establishments and the former grand hotels that welcomed wealthy visitors during the golden age of thermalism.

The Hôtel Astoria, built in 1904–1905 by Swiss architects, remains one of the most elegant reminders of this world.

Many of the former luxury hotels of Aix have now been converted into apartments, but their façades still speak of another era. Buildings such as the Splendide, Excelsior, Bernascon and Beau Site remind us that Aix once competed with the great European spa destinations.

This is where the town’s Belle Époque story becomes visible in stone, balconies and decorative detail.

4. The Arch of Campanus

The Arch of Campanus is one of the most important Roman monuments in Aix-les-Bains.

Located in front of the former national thermal baths, it bears witness to the Roman history of the town. The tourist office describes it as an important testament to the rich Roman past of Aix, while historical sources usually date it to the 1st century AD.

Its original function has long been debated. It may have been a funerary monument or a monumental arch associated with the ancient thermal complex.

Whatever its exact purpose, the arch gives the centre of Aix a rare direct link with the Roman world.

What I like about it is the contrast. You stand in a town known for Belle Époque hotels and thermal façades, and suddenly there is a Roman monument, quietly reminding everyone that Aix has been dealing with hot water for a very long time.

5. The Old Thermal Baths

The former national thermal baths are central to the identity of Aix-les-Bains.

They form one of the most emblematic architectural complexes in the town, combining traces of Roman thermalism, 19th-century development and 20th-century additions.

The old thermal district reflects the town’s long spa history and gathers many of its most important heritage features.

The Thermes Pellegrini building, with its monumental façade, remains one of the most striking parts of this ensemble. Inside, parts of the old thermal architecture recall the scale and ambition of Aix during its spa-town heyday.

The district is currently undergoing transformation, so access and uses may change over time. But even from the outside, the old thermal quarter is essential if you want to understand why Aix-les-Bains became famous.

6. The Parc Floral des Thermes

Beside the old thermal quarter, the Parc Floral des Thermes offers a welcome moment of calm.

This public garden adds greenery, flowers and shade to the historic centre. It is the kind of place that makes perfect sense in a spa town.

Visitors did not come only for treatments; they also needed somewhere to stroll, breathe, sit and recover from the exhausting effort of taking life slowly.

In summer, the park’s open-air spaces can host concerts and events. But even outside the main season, it is a pleasant place to pause between the Roman remains, the casino and the old thermal buildings.

7. The Town Hall and the Temple of Diana

The Town Hall of Aix-les-Bains occupies a building that looks like a castle — because it was one.

The former château of the Marquis of Aix now houses the Hôtel de Ville. This reuse of an old aristocratic building as a civic centre is typical of French towns where history has been absorbed into everyday life.

Behind the Town Hall are the remains of the so-called Temple of Diana. This Roman ruin is located inside the Town Hall complex, and its interior and archaeological collection can be visited, usually as part of guided access.

Together, the Town Hall, the Temple of Diana and the Arch of Campanus form one of the most historically dense corners of Aix-les-Bains.

8. Rue Albert 1er

Rue Albert 1er follows part of the old road that once connected Geneva and Chambéry.

In the past, it was known as Rue de Chambéry, before being renamed in honour of Albert I, King of Belgium, remembered for his courage during the First World War.

I have always liked this street. It is narrow, lively and lined with boutiques, cafés and restaurants. It does not try too hard. It simply feels like one of those streets where a town reveals its everyday character.

After the grand thermal façades and Roman monuments, Rue Albert 1er brings Aix-les-Bains back to a more intimate scale.

9. The Casino Grand Cercle

The Casino Grand Cercle is arguably the most opulent building in Aix-les-Bains.

Built in 1850 by King Victor Emmanuel II, it was designed as a place of leisure and festivities, and has been extended, modified and redecorated over time. Today, it contains two magnificent mosaic ceilings, a theatre and several function rooms.

This is not merely a casino. It is a major piece of spa-town heritage.

Step inside if you can, even if gambling is not your thing. The decoration, mosaics, stained glass and theatrical atmosphere recall the days when Aix-les-Bains attracted European aristocracy and wealthy international visitors.

In a town of this size, the interior can come as a surprise. You might expect this level of decorative ambition in Paris, Vienna or Monte Carlo. Finding it in Aix-les-Bains says a great deal about the town’s former prestige.

10. The Japanese Garden

Behind the Casino Grand Cercle, the Japanese Garden offers a quieter and more unexpected corner of Aix-les-Bains.

Created in 1998 for the Year of Japan in France, it symbolises friendship between France and Japan. Its layout, planting and decorative elements add another layer to the garden heritage of the town.

It is a small site, but a pleasant one, especially if you are already visiting the casino and the nearby thermal district.

11. The Faure Museum

The Faure Museum is another important cultural site in Aix-les-Bains, although visitors should check its current status before planning a visit.

The museum was created from the collection of Doctor Jean Faure and is known for its works by Rodin and its Impressionist paintings.

However, the Faure Museum is closed for works, with reopening planned in early 2027 under a new identity, La Villa – Collection d’art.

When it reopens, it should once again be one of the key cultural stops in Aix-les-Bains.

12. The Grand Port, Petit Port and Lake Bourget

No visit to Aix-les-Bains is complete without going down to Lake Bourget.

The Grand Port and Petit Port show another side of the town: more open, more relaxed, more connected to boats, beaches and the changing light of the lake.

This is where Aix stops being only a spa town and becomes a lakeside destination. You can walk along the water, watch the boats, enjoy the views towards the Dent du Chat, or simply sit and let the landscape do the work.

If you have read my article on Lake Bourget, you will know that the lake deserves a full discovery in its own right. But Aix-les-Bains is certainly one of the best places to begin.

13. Le Revard, the Mountain Balcony Above Aix-les-Bains

Le Revard is not in the town centre, but it is closely linked to Aix-les-Bains.

Rising above the town in the Bauges massif, it offers one of the finest panoramic views over Lake Bourget, Aix-les-Bains, the surrounding massifs and, on a clear day, Mont Blanc.

In winter, Le Revard forms part of the Savoie Grand Revard Nordic area. In summer, it is a place for walks, hikes and viewpoints.

If Aix gives you the lake and the spa-town elegance, Le Revard gives you the mountain perspective. Together, they explain why this part of Savoie is so attractive.

Practical Tips for Visiting Aix-les-Bains

How to Get to Aix-les-Bains

Aix-les-Bains is easy to reach by road and rail.

By car, the town is accessible from Chambéry, Annecy, Geneva, Lyon and Grenoble via the main roads and motorways of the region. It makes a practical stop if you are travelling between the northern Alps, Lake Bourget, Annecy and the Rhône valley.

By train, Aix-les-Bains-Le Revard station has connections with Chambéry, Annecy, Lyon and Paris. This makes the town convenient for visitors who prefer to travel without a car.

Once in the centre, many of the main heritage sites can be visited on foot.

How Long Do You Need in Aix-les-Bains?

For a quick first visit, allow at least half a day. This gives you time to walk through the centre, see the old thermal district, the Arch of Campanus, the Town Hall, the Temple of Diana, the Casino Grand Cercle and perhaps the Parc Floral des Thermes.

A full day is better. It allows you to add the lakefront, the ports, a longer walk, a museum or a trip up to Le Revard.

If you want to enjoy the spa atmosphere, explore Lake Bourget and use Aix as a base for the surrounding area, two or three nights would not be too much.

When to Visit Aix-les-Bains

Aix-les-Bains can be visited throughout the year.

Spring is ideal for gardens, walking and mild temperatures. Summer is lively, especially around Lake Bourget, the ports and the beaches. If you do not like crowds, try to avoid sunny summer weekends around the lakefront.

Autumn is one of my favourite seasons in the area. The light softens, the lake becomes quieter, and the colours around Lake Bourget and the surrounding hills can be beautiful.

Winter gives the town a calmer atmosphere. On clear days, the combination of lake, mountains and possible snow on the heights can be superb.

Where to Stay in Aix-les-Bains

Aix-les-Bains offers a wide range of accommodation, from town-centre hotels and spa stays to apartments near Lake Bourget and quieter options in the surrounding hills.

Staying in the centre is practical if you want easy access to the station, the old thermal district, the Casino Grand Cercle, restaurants and shops.

Staying closer to the lake works well if your priority is the Grand Port, the Petit Port, beaches and lakeside walks.

You can also look at accommodation around Lake Bourget, in nearby Chambéry, or in the villages and hills surrounding Aix if you prefer a quieter base.

Browse the map below to compare available accommodation in and around Aix-les-Bains.

Is Aix-les-Bains Worth Visiting?

Yes, Aix-les-Bains is definitely worth visiting, especially if you enjoy elegant towns with history, architecture and a beautiful natural setting.

It may not have the medieval canals of Annecy or the dramatic peaks of Chamonix, but it offers something else: the atmosphere of a great spa town, the charm of Belle Époque architecture, Roman remains, gardens, a remarkable casino, and immediate access to Lake Bourget.

What I like about Aix is the combination. You can move from Roman stones to Art Deco interiors, from thermal façades to lakeside promenades, from old palaces to mountain views.

Aix is not only a stop on the way to somewhere else. It is a destination in its own right — a town where water, architecture, leisure and Alpine scenery have shaped a very distinctive Savoyard identity.